Restaurant Review: Stadium (at The All Star)

My husband and I were excited to check out the new, fabu bowling alley in Riverhead, The All Star…for the food. Chef Keith Luce is the executive chef, he helped to create the menu and overall feel of the restaurant. We’d follow him anywhere to eat his food—but this place is actually slightly closer to our Sag Harbor home than Jamesport’s Jedediah Hawkins Inn where we’ve often enjoyed his handiwork. We hear he’s no longer in the kitchen at the Jedediah Hawkins Inn, fingers crossed he’s moving to Sag Harbor Village, but I doubt it.

Back to the food at the Stadium restaurant in the All Star. It’s called “Stadium” because it’s set up on several steep levels. Our server Amanda was very good-natured about this design. We sat on the highest level on a big, comfy banquette as she happily ran back and forth to kitchen and bar. The restaurant includes a wood-burning brick oven and an impressive 24-foot video wall utilizing 15 high-definition flat screens.

The bowling lanes also boast huge video screens. There’s no other place like The All Star on the East End. Plus there’s a game arcade for kids—or the kid inside you. Upbeat music pumps throughout the huge building.

Of course we had to try the Ewings, Buffalo style. Impressive. They taste right AND they’re less messy than most Buffalo wings. You can have your food served right on the lanes if you wish. It’s already a popular spot for childrens birthday parties. Private lanes are available.

Back to the wings—rich bleu cheese dressing, check. Celery AND carrots, classy. Plenty o’ napkins.

We shared a special, Cajun Shrimp on a skewer. The shrimp were tender and quite mild, with a hint of smoke.

Husband got into the spirit of the All Star’s Vortex Bar with a Riverhead Rattlesnake of cucumber, mint and lime with mango and a dry bite of gin. He approved. The  bar is adjacent to the restaurant and boasts an array of signature cocktails, 12 inverted beer taps and eight more high definition flat screens suspended from the ceiling.

I ordered the Chicken Thai Cobb, a salad of chopped romaine, tasty chicken, carrots, sweet red peppers topped with crispy rice noodles and a sweet chili vinaigrette. I loved it. I could have eaten it all night but instead had most of it wrapped for lunch the next day.

Husband ordered The Classic, which is a basic pizza. He chose to have mushrooms and red peppers on his entrée. While we waited for its arrival, we enjoyed an order of Nachos Locos. Red, blue and yellow chips served with a bowl of chili, cheese sauce, scallions, shredded jack and cheddar cheese with guacamole, thick sour cream and salsa. It’s handy to dip the chips—you could do that with one hand and bowl with the other! Yum.

Husband’s pizza arrived piping hot. It had all the classic elements including a nice, sexy-ugly crust, but the sauce was oddly bland.

Somewhere during this feast Husband moved on to a Martha Clara Vineyards’ Chardonnay. Other local beverages at hand include: Peconic Bay Riesling, Macari Vineyards Merlot, Long Ireland Seasonal Beer and Southampton Ale.

Sadly, we failed to save room for a dessert of mini zeppoles or s’mores…

The All Star really has it all. Bowling leagues are forming and will begin competing next month—so you can eat, drink and exercise all in one place.

The All Star, 96 Main Road, Riverhead, www.theallstar.com, 631-998-3565

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