Hamptons Restaurant Review: Nammos Is Authentically Greek

I’d assume that visiting the Greek islands graces every East Ender’s bucket list. Luckily, Southampton’s Nammos offers Hamptonites the opportunity to check that item off without boarding an airplane.

Nestled just north of the Main Street business district, Nammos transports diners to a world of authentic Greek fare, expertly crafted by Executive Chef Emmanouil Aslanoglou.

My dad and I ducked into the restaurant on a misty but warm Sunday evening. Though the mild temperature begged us to consider sitting outside—Nammos has an outdoor lounge area, and large awnings keep the rain at bay—we opted for a comfy indoor table near the fireplace.

A veritable summer hotspot, Nammos is now working to become a go-to, year-round destination, as it infuses the East End with flavorful, home-cooked Greek cuisine. Locals know that it’s easy to stick with the familiar, dining out at traditional area staples. Just over a year into its new ownership, Nammos is quickly becoming one of those spots. Specials include a three-course $25 prix fixe every day; Friday and Saturday until 7 p.m. Bar specials vary. I’ll be back for “Wine down Wednesdays” for buy-one-get-one glasses of wines, and Thursdays are buy-one-get-one drinks.

We set off on our cruise through the Mediterranean dining scene and completed our meal in a very European style, taking our time with a number of courses and enjoying the quiet conversation that comes with dining in the Hamptons in the offseason.

At GM Emilio Eliades’s bidding, we started off with the soup of the day, a butternut squash infused with mint. The creamy concoction paired perfectly with the damp fall evening. The soup was flavorful, but not overly creamy or heavy, and the touch of mint gave the dish its signature, invigorating bite.

Next, we were treated to the broccoli salad, a mixture of broccoli, crispy pancetta, red and yellow peppers, raisins and—my favorite of the Greek additions—yogurt sauce. The pancetta tasted exactly as it was billed—crispy—and provided the perfect complement to the sweet broccoli. The salad was refreshing, with the broccoli both soft and chilled, a welcome deviation from the raw broccoli that usually comes in salads. Substantial, this salad is not simply a way to get in the obligatory serving of vegetables, but rather a way to enjoy the start of a meal.

At this point, I turned to the olive bread on our table, its presence unnoticed until now. The soft, lightly toasted slices, dipped in olive oil, completed my trip to the Mediterranean.

We paired our appetizers with a glass of white wine—Tsantali, from Halidiki, Greece. The wine is similar to a pinot grigio and a sauvignon blanc blend, and its lightness complemented the starters well.

For the main course, we split two entrées. First was the wild mushroom pasta. The hand-crafted yogurt-pasta was tossed with shiitake, Portobello and button mushrooms mixed with chives, white truffle oil and parmesan. The pasta was soft, not a typical al dente, which gave the dish a nice texture. The truffle oil worked well with the myriad mushrooms, enhancing the flavor of the dish. We then split the braised lamb pappardelle—a basil pappardelle with tomato sauce. Like the yogurt pasta, this dish is simple, letting the freshness of the ingredients come through. Both entrées paired well with our subsequent glass of red wine, St. George Agiorgitiko. Eliades is in the process of adding more local wines, but the current Greek options are worth sampling.

We ended our meal with loukoumades—aka Greek donuts, served with cinnamon ice cream. Delectable.

The inviting atmosphere begged us to stay a little longer, and Eliades treated us to an after-dinner cocktail. Made with Mastiha, a Greek liquor, Eliades crafted a concoction that hid the alcohol’s overwhelmingly sweet properties—think limoncello-sweet. With its dash of vodka, fresh lime juice and lime zest, it’s a refreshing combination. The drink doesn’t have a name yet, but it’s reason enough to begin one more trip through the Mediterranean.

Nammos is open six days, closed Mondays, with a late-night bar on Fridays and Saturdays. 136 Main Street, Southampton. 631-287-5500, nammos-hub.com.

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