| Issue #26, September 22, 2006 |
Skin Deep With Samantha Altea
Fall Fashion
Its Fashion Week and so it only seemed apt that I should sit down with my favorite fashion guru and style consultant, Pamela Bouchard, of The Dressing Room. Bouchard styles people with looks from Bergdorf’s to budget, and can also be known to hot foot it to the Hamptons for any fashion emergency. So who better to get the low down on what’s up?
“This is a season where fashion is a little more pared down,” says Bouchard, “It’s not the highly embellished garments of last season, but more about layering in the right proportions. In fact, layers are almost used like accessories and dressing is about proportion and volume.” I asked what she meant by this. The answer……volume on jackets, blouses and sweaters and skirts. For example, the blouse, a key piece this fall, might have volume on the sleeve, with fuller Edwardian details like lantern sleeves.
Another trend is that everything is dark and moody in feel and color, and what’s more, unlike in other seasons where gray, or brown might be talked about as the new black, this year, black IS the new black! Any colors are blackened and brooding, almost medieval in cast with plenty of gray and chocolate brown. Reds and violets are accent, but again, broodingly dark.
There’s a distinctive 80s feel with the shocking comeback of the legging. But a sleeker, more architectural and sophisticated 80s. So not leggings that are printed and brightly colored that we all remember. These are more chic, darker and tight to the leg, used as a layering piece, whether under a cinched waist tulip skirt or a chunky sweater dress.
A pretty top is a key item. But only a blouse, and it will take the form of frilly and flirty, contrasting the darkness of the rest of the season’s somber mood. Blouses are high neck, bowed, ruffled and jabot.
Skirts add volume and come in several forms, the first being the bubble, or tulip skirt, then, in the right proportion, either leggings or opaque tights can be used as layering pieces. Beware, however, bubble skirts feature your legs…….so make sure you have good pins when thinking about shopping for one. If not for you, the 40s / 50s inspired pencil skirt is back again and shown layered with leggings. A chunky sweater dress is also going to be big this season and is a key item. Micro minis are in…….though not in great quantity and AGAIN always worn with leggings and layers. Whether sweater dressing in general, from chunky gauges to fine layers, mixing in different proportions is key. For example, put a long fine gauge tunic, layered over a knit legging, with a chunkier gauge cable knit vest, or crop sweater.
Cropped boxy jackets, with mild trapeze shapes to them, very fitted, but then belling out a little at the bottom are key, too. Vests are big, especially with fur trims and make great layering pieces.
We’ve all seen the new Gap ad, featuring the stunning Audrey Hepburn ……well, it’s their take on that 50s/60s dressing and the leggings I keep harping on. Skinny pants can also act as layering pieces and a different take on leg covering. And since I do keep mentioning these darn leggings as underpinnings, some excellent brands to try are: Vince, Anna Sui, Falke, Wolford, or at a lower price point, Hue.
Trench style jackets are the way to go for outer layers, but the new influence this season that we haven’t seen for a very long time is the cape.
Opaque tights are also a staple and making a huge comeback.
Accessories are major, giving a punch to outfits that are a little more dour. Get a big bag and a wide belt to cinch you in at the waist. Shoes, from chunky wedges and platforms that make a statement are heaven, but coming down to earth, ballet flats or flat high boots are also key. An opaque leg, melding into a sculptural platform shoe is the look du jour. Jewelry, from rings to big cuffs, needs to be chunky so as not to get lost in all the layers of the season.
A peripheral trend is the sleek menswear inspired look, and military detailing is also something we’re noticing this season. Fur trim, animal prints and skin prints are here again. But aren’t they always?
Contrasting is another way to dress this year, e.g. a snow-white swing coat juxtaposed with black leggings and black chunky shoes.
So what are you waiting for? Get shopping!
If you want help with YOUR wardrobe call Pamela Bouchard at The Dressing Room: 212-439-8040 or 917-375-1558
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