| Issue #30, October 20, 2006 |
129 Noyac Road
Southampton, NY
631-204-0007
We overate. The food was irresistible, and our enthusiasm shone through on the empty plates. The team of Chef Michael Gomez, Sous Chef Mark Wisehart and Garde-Manger Michael Loren, along with owners Delaney Oser and Myles Romanov have created, in the space that once housed Q Thai Bistro, a restaurant that serves some of the most delicious, interesting, elegant, and satisfying food in the Hamptons.
Three friends and I ordered three courses as we would have in any other restaurant, but there the similarity ended, as our expectations were exceeded and eating became indulging. The low-key ambiance, the reasonable prices, the computer printout menu and the warm familiarity of our waitress, Amanda, suggested a casual meal very different from the sophisticated one we experienced.
Myles recommended that we allow the chef to select our appetizers and we acquiesced. The plates came out one at a time, adding to the drama of the presentation and giving us a moment to ooh and aah over the creativity and beauty; each was composed to be vertically and horizontally interesting. First arrived the succulent pan-roasted quail perched atop a mound of fennel, orange and basil salad generously tossed in a creamy, orange mint vinaigrette. The dressing was tangy and contrasted the richness of the game bird to perfection. Next arrived warm macadamia-crusted goat cheese salad, which was my absolute fave. The goat cheese disc was densely coated with nuts, crunchy and sizzling on the outside and heated to a meltingly creamy consistency on the inside. The salad dressing was balsamic and fig syrup with a satiny texture and a sweet and sour flavor; the plate was decorated with a fan of black mission fig slices. The third platter was the sushi napoleon of spicy hamachi (yellowtail) served over sticky rice, with an innovative green onion and mustard-oil vinaigrette, painted with bright red tobiko. The layers were colorful and the tippy top was a selection of edible red and pink flowers. The last appetizer was the Cobb salad, comprised of the traditional ingredients but peppered with Roquefort cheese and a sherry-shallot vinaigrette. Also layered, it was lovely to look at.
Our main courses were as varied and intriguing. I ordered the soba noodles and coconut curry broth because it was a chilly night and I was craving soup. It was spicy, gingery and flavorful, with crisp, stir-fried vegetables, tofu, cashews, Thai basil, and cilantro. Served in an enormous, shallow bowl, the amount of noodles could have easily satiated all four of us. Alas, I was on my own, but it was fine with me. Sabrina had a magnificent, braised lamb shank, standing straight up in a bowl of roasted mushroom fregula (a pasta that looks like a wheatberry), apricots, golden raisins, dates, and almonds. She exclaimed that it is the perfect dish for a cold night and smiled as the meat slid easily off the bone and at the melding of the rich Madeira jus and sweet, dried fruits. Christian reliably orders steak, and loved his substantial, grilled thick-cut New York strip served with the quintessential house-cut bistro fries, crispy, salty and fluffy. It was accompanied by rainbow chard and surrounded by a pillow of grain mustard béarnaise. Finally, Lizzie loved the wild mushroom ravioli. It, again, was a step above what you would expect. The homemade pasta was filled with chopped, red-wine-braised mushrooms and scented with thyme, and the deep, earthy sauce was elevated with a touch of cream. The dozen ravoli were served in an overlapping row, placed diagonally across the delicate, white square plate, and the contrast of colors was entrancing.
We ate from one another’s plates, we passed around forkfuls of food and made a mess of the table. Fortunately, none of our morsels fell into the wineglasses. Lizzie, Christian and Sabrina tried the Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc, Wishing Tree Australian Shiraz and Heron Pinot Noir. While the wines were a bit uneven, my vodka tonic was delightful.
And then it was time for dessert. Reading this, you probably can’t imagine we could eat one more bite, and we might have protested at bringing four desserts for the four of us, but we didn’t have a chance. Out came a tartufo of frozen chocolate gelato filled with zabaglione and hazelnut on a layer of fresh whipped cream; three large scoops of rich, tart passionfruit sorbet with mint leaves and blueberries; the very berry tarte of firm, popping gooseberries, raspberries, currants, blueberries and strawberries in a warm, light and buttery crust; and the pièce de résistance– the most elegant banana split imaginable. The bananas were firm, the whipped cream fluffy and not too sweet, the chocolate syrup light and smooth, and the dulce de leche gelato rich, cool and creamy. It was awesome. Again, presentation was at the forefront; the bowls were oversized and in interesting shapes, with bowed rims, and the tart floated on a spray of berry syrups splayed across the plate.
Wildthyme prides itself on serving excellent food for prices lower than you would expect, in a laid-back environment where sophisticated food is allowed to be fun. They have accomplished their goals and soared beyond. Wildthyme is open for dinner five nights, closed Tuesday and Wednesday. There is a $24 prix fixe on Mondays and Thursdays.
–Robin Feman
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