| Issue #30, October 20, 2006 |
Over The Barrel...
with Lenn Thompson
Young Wines and Improving Vines at Vineyard 48
The age-old saying is that wine is made in the vineyard. It’s cliché, but it’s true in the most literal sense — without the grapes grown there, there’d be no wine to speak of. And, try as some winemakers might, it’s impossible to make great wine from mediocre fruit.
So, when Rose Pipia purchased the old Bidwell Winery and its vineyards on Route 48 in Cutchogue a couple years back, one wonders if she and her son Joe (who runs the place) knew exactly what they were in for. I hesitate to say that the Bidwell family, once important members of a still-young wine industry, neglected their vines, but they certainly didn’t nurture them the way they could — or should — have. These are some of the North Fork’s oldest vines, so the potential for greatness is there.
But, in just two short years the Pipias, along with grape-growing guru Steve Mudd and winemaker neophyte head winemaker Matthew Berenz, have steadily improved the quality and popularity of Vineyard 48’s offerings.
In the spring spring, three red releases impressed me and good initial steps up in quality — even in their too-young-to-show-too-well youth. The 2004 Vignetta ($25), a Bordeaux-style blend of fifty-percent Cabernet Franc, thirty-percent Cabernet Sauvignon and twenty-percent Merlot was my favorite with a complex nose that delivers tart cherry, cranberry and leather aromas with cinnamon stick and earthy notes. Plummy fruit flavors with soft, fine oak and tannins and excellent and more earthiness made this wine the most approachable of the lot. The 2004 Merlot ($35) showed potential, but was still a bit raw and tannic. It is deserving of another taste down the road.
Last weekend, I got my first taste of Berenz’s 2005 whites — varietal bottlings of riesling, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. And, while I wasn’t blown away by any, none will make you run for the hills either.
My love of riesling is no secret. It’s my favorite of all the whites. Vineyard 48’s 2005 Riesling ($18) has aromas and flavors that are a bit simple — Golden Delicious apples, Bartlett pears and just-ripe peaches — and while perhaps too sweet, features plenty of tongue-tingling acidity. This isn’t the most refined, elegant wine out there, but if you like a more West Coast-style Riesling, you’ll probably like this one.
Some of the best 2005 whites from Long Island are the sauvignon blancs. The hot, dry growing season ripened this Bordeaux variety fully, leading to flavorful, classic wines. That being the case, it’s no surprise that Vineyard 48’s 2005 Sauvignon Blanc ($15) is by far the best value of these three wines. Pale straw in the glass, the nose isn’t as forthcoming as some, but offers light citrus, passion fruit and herb notes. Much less aggressive than the popular New Zealand renditions, it is tart, clean and straightforward with lime, more passion fruit and minerals on a vibrant, tart finish.
Typically, I prefer chardonnay with little — or at least judicious — oak. Unfortunately, Vineyard 48’s 2005 Chardonnay ($18) displays a little too much raw oak. The nose is assertively lemony and citrusy with toasty oak overtones. It’s fresh and lively with subtle creaminess, nice nutty-yeasty flavors and nice acidity, but raw oak flavors mar an otherwise promising wine. One wonders what this wine could have been without the oak aging.
This Saturday, Vineyard 48 is throwing its 2nd Annual Family Harvest Festival. Stop by and check it out or visit www.vineyard48 for.com more information.
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