| Issue #30, October 20, 2006 |
Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column
In celebration of the James Beard Foundation’s 20th anniversary, a reception and presentation was held at the James Beard House on East 12th St. in Manhattan. Susan Ungaro, President of the Foundation; Dorothy Cann Hamilton, of the French Culinary Institute and Chairman of the Board of the Foundation; and James Beard Foundation Trustee chefs: Robert Del Grande of Café Annie, Houston; Emily Luchetti of Farallon, San Francisco; Patrick O’Connell of Inn at Little Washington; and Norman Van Aiken of Norman’s, Coral Gables, were there to represent A Taste of What’s to Come at the Beard House.
As a cook, teacher, raconteur and author, the late James Beard, remembered as the “Dean of American Cookery,” brought an appreciation and understanding of American cooking traditions. Along with the popular, almost nightly, celebrity chefs’ dinners at the House, new programs will be unfolding to preserve and nurture America’s culinary heritage and diversity.
Looking to the future, the new president and foundation trustees, partnering with Williams-Sonoma, will host free, day-long festival events open to the public in 20 cities nationwide on September 28 and 29 in 2007. Headlined by some of the most influential chefs working in America today, there will be cooking demonstrations, cookbook signings, panel discussions, children’s activities, and a market place featuring tastings from local artisans and farmers.
At the presentation on October 10th, guests were treated to some of James Beard’s favorite foods; the recipes of which he shared with Chuck Williams of Williams-Sonoma, one of his closest friends. They were prepared by Great Performances Catering in New York City for our pleasure.
BAY SHRIMP AND PINK GRAPEFRUIT SALAD
At the Beard House event, tiny shrimp and red grapefruit segments were dressed with the dressing below, wrapped in a lettuce leaf, and tied with a chive string for piquant finger food. The following is an adaptation.
Serves 6 as salad
5-6 sprigs fresh tarragon, 4-5 inches long
3 tablespoons champagne or white wine vinegar
2 pink grapefruits
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
12 Boston lettuce leaf cups, washed and dried
1/2 pound medium-sized shrimp, cooked and cleaned
Fresh chive garnish, optional
1. About 2 days before, tear tarragon leaves into a small bowl and pour the vinegar over. Cover with plastic wrap and let steep.
2. With a thin-bladed, serrated knife, peel grapefruit skin exposing the fruit. Cut segments over a bowl to catch the juice. Repeat with second grapefruit and set segments aside.
3. Add the juice to the olive oil, season with salt and pepper and stir vigorously to mix. Strain the tarragon vinegar into the oil mixture and stir to mix. Taste to adjust seasoning.
4. Arrange 2 lettuce leaves on each of 6 salad plates. Divide shrimp and grapefruit segments equally. Whisk the vinaigrette and spoon equal amounts over each serving.
JAMES BEARD’S FAVORITE HAMBURGER
Chuck Williams of Williams-Sonoma remembers having this hamburger for lunch with James Beard on 2nd Avenue about 40 years ago.
This adaptation makes 4 burgers.
1 pound ground chuck
2 tablespoons grated onion
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Pat the meat into a rather flat cake. Grate the onion directly into the center. Add the salt and carefully spoon the heavy cream onto the meat. Blend well with hands and form into 4 equal hamburgers about 1 1/4-inch thick.
2. Heat the oil and butter in a heavy skillet (I used my heavy iron skillet). When quite hot, add the burgers and cook to your favorite state of doneness, about 3 minutes on each side for medium rare. Season the burgers with salt and pepper. Mini-burgers were served at the event with sliced tomato and lettuce on buns.
BREAD AND BUTTER CUSTARD
These delicious little custards were served in small white ramekins for the reception.
Serves 6-8
About 6 slices day-old French bread, about 1/2-inch thick
Unsalted butter at room temperature
2 cups heavy cream
2 cups milk
2 lemon zest strips
1/2 vanilla bean, slit in half to expose seeds
3 whole eggs and 4 egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Confectioner’s sugar
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Butter a 2-quart oval or rectangular baking dish about 2 inches deep.
1. In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the cream, milk, lemon zest, and vanilla bean. Heat to the edge of a simmer and set aside to cool.
2. In a large bowl, combine whole eggs, egg yolks and granulated sugar and whisk until mixture is a light lemon color, about 5 minutes.
3. Remove lemon zest and vanilla bean from the hot milk custard and discard. Gradually add the hot cream mixture to the beaten egg while stirring constantly until blended. Pour into the prepared baking dish. Trim bread slices to fit closely together without overlapping the slices. Place baking dish in a larger baking pan (bain marie) pouring boiling water half way up the sides of the larger pan. Bake 40-45 minutes until bread slices are crusty and golden and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve warm or at room temperature. Dust with confectioner’s sugar before serving.
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