| Issue #37, December 8, 2006 |
Over The Barrel...
with Lenn Thompson
Shinn Wine Shines
Sometimes we get so caught up in the story of wine that we forget about the juice in the bottle.
For example, Shinn Estate Vineyards, still a relative newcomer to the Long Island wine scene, gets a ton of press for its “green” vineyard practices and its owners’ pedigree as Manhattan restaurateurs.
True, David Page and Barbara Shinn employ several progressive sustainable and near-organic farming techniques in their North Fork vineyard. Yes, their Greenwich Village restaurant, Home, is a successful exhibition of local, seasonal food and wine.
But it’s important not to forget about the fermented grape juice they bottle and stop with a cork. Their wines are almost always elegant, aromatic and enormously food friendly. Now sold out, their 2005 “first fruit” Sauvignon-Blanc Semillon ($21) and 2005 “Home” Chardonnay ($16) are both crisp, fresh white wines that are clearly meant for seafood and sea-side sipping.
Released last spring, the non-vintage “Red” ($14) is a blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon that is best enjoyed at the dinner table. Light-to-medium bodied, this wine actually has some Pinot Noir-like qualities, with a nose redolent of mainly raspberry and strawberries, with just the most subtle hints of spice. The palate is juicy red berries, hints of oak character, and terrific food-friendly acidity that is what makes this wine so charming.
In recent months, David and Barbara have been pretty busy up on Oregon Road. They’ve hired their first full-time winemaker, Juan Eduardo Micieli-Martinez (formerly of Pellegrini Vineyards) and assembled their new winery (the wines used to be made at Wolffer Estate). They are also renovating the farmhouse to open a bed and breakfast next summer. But again, let’s not forget about the wines. Two newly released reds continue Shinn’s young tradition of deliciously drinkable wines. A couple weeks ago, the New York Times picked Shinn Estate Vineyards’ 2003 Estate Merlot as the best Thanksgiving pairing. Of course that wine was sold out long before the article came out. Shinn Estate Vineyards 2004 Estate Merlot ($24) is available, however and it seems to have similar food-friendly qualities. Medium ruby red in the glass, the nose is youthful with fresh red cherries, plums and toasty oak aromas. On the palate, similar red fruit character is accented by subtle nutmeg and clove, and gently gripping tannins. I don’t think this wine is showing all that it’s capable of. Another six to twelve months in bottle will help it open up and reveal it’s true self. The producers first varietal Cabernet Franc bottling, Shinn Estate Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Franc ($38) is a rich, layered Cabernet Franc that leans toward the richer style of this underappreciated variety. Raspberries, violets, vanilla and toasty oak are joined on the nose by interesting orange zest and blossom notes. This is a full-flavored wine with cherry, raspberry and spice that wash over the tongue with light, soft tannins and a lingering spicy finish. I don’t think many local Can Francs are age-worthy, but this one should develop for another 5-10 years.
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