Issue #39, December 22, 2006

Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

Brunch may be the least formal style of entertaining one can do for any occasion, and it certainly fits perfectly well during the winter holidays.

For me, brunch would be an excuse to make some of my favorite foods. To start, I would prepare a frittata or two, depending on the number of guests. For those enthralled with Tuscany, my frittata would include caramelized slices of sautéed sweet red onion and piercingly sharp Pecorino. Everyone loves spanakopita, those delicious little Greek phyllo triangles, filled with fresh feta and spinach. It has become a ubiquitous hors d’ouevre, yet it is more appropriately served as a breakfast or brunch dish. Gravlax, the cured salmon fillet under a blanket of herbs, spices and seasonings, is another favorite. Serve the paper-thin slices on wedges of dark pumpernickel bread. If serving brunch for the New Year, the Italian bubbly Prosecco is a great and inexpensive alternative to Champagne – yet another favorite! For a sweet ending to your brunch, you must try my latest accomplishment in the baking department – a poached pear and quince tea loaf with bits of chocolate. For me, dessert wouldn’t be dessert without chocolate. Just delicious!

Have a very Happy and fulfilling New Year.

RED ONION AND CHEESE FRITTATA

While frittata is typically a snack in Italy, it makes an appropriate brunch dish.

8-10 as appetizer
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 medium red onions, sliced paper-thin
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
7 large eggs, beaten
1/2 cup grated Pecorino

1. Heat the oils in a non-stick skillet and sauté the onions over medium heat, stirring occasionally until tender, about 8-10 minutes. Transfer to a strainer over a bowl to catch the oil. Allow onions to drain well and cool completely. Reserve drained oil.

2. Whisk eggs in a mixing bowl until yolks and whites are thoroughly combined. Add the cooled onions, salt, pepper and cheese. Stir to mix.

3. Return two tablespoons of reserved oil to the skillet that the onions cooked in and heat gently. When hot, pour in egg mixture. With a large wooden spoon, release eggs from the edge of the pan, tilting pan slightly, as they begin to set. This allows some of the uncooked egg mixture to run into the edges. When eggs are set and frittata is well-detached from bottom of pan, remove from heat. Wait to cool, then put a plate, a little larger than the skillet, face down over the pan. Hold the plate firmly, reverse pan, and turn out frittata.

4. Return pan to medium heat with one tablespoon reserved oil. Carefully slide frittata into pan to cook other side. After two minutes, slide the frittata onto a serving dish. Can be made up to one day ahead. Refrigerate as necessary, or prepare several hours ahead and serve at room temperature. To serve, cut into narrow wedges.

GRAVLAX WITH CRÈME FRAICHE AND CAPER BERRIES

Classically, gravlax is created by weighting down a whole fillet of salmon for two to three days with a mixture of sugar, salt and a thick packing of herbs. This inspired version is cured with curry powder, cilantro and tequila, and served with a dollop of crème fraîîche.

Yield: about 20 servings

1 side salmon fillet, skin on (about 2 1/2 lbs.), neatly trimmed
1/2 cup coarse (kosher) salt
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup curry powder
1 large bunch cilantro, washed, spin-dried and roughly chopped
1/2 cup tequila or vodka
1-2 packages Westphalian-style thinly sliced pumpernickel
Crème fraîche
Caper berries for garnish (optional)

1. Remove bones from salmon with tweezers or the tip of a small knife. Rinse and pat salmon dry with paper towels.

2. Combine salt, sugar and curry and sprinkle 2-3 teaspoons of spice mixture evenly across the bottom of a Pyrex or shallow earthenware dish, large enough to hold the fish. Place salmon, skin side down in the dish and pour the tequila over it. Rub the spice mixture into the salmon flesh. Cover with plastic wrap and weight down with a heavy object. Refrigerate for a minimum of two days and up to three or four days. Turn the fish each day, basting with the liquid that develops.

3. When ready to serve, scrape the marinade from the fish and discard the cilantro and liquid. With a sharp, thin-bladed knife, cut salmon into paper-thin slices on the bias, as for smoked salmon. (The remaining skin may be grilled or sautéed in a hot non-stick skillet, rolled up and cut into thin slices for an optional garnish.) Serve slices of gravlax on pumpernickel points. Dab with crème fraîche and top with caper berries, if desired.

POACHED PEAR AND QUINCE TEA CAKE

If quince is not available, use an extra pear. This inspired cake has an especially moist fruit flavor.

Makes One 9-inch loaf

1 cup cold water
1/2 cup sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1/2 lemon
2 Anjou pears, peeled and cored
1 quince, peeled and seeded
2 large eggs
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter at room temperature, cut into chunks
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon almond or orange extract
1 3.5 ounce bittersweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces
1 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons cream of tartar
1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Place water and sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the cinnamon stick and juice of half lemon, stir to mix. Adjust heat and simmer for five minutes. Cut the prepared fruits into quarters and put into the syrup, spooning over juices. Poach the fruits for 5-10 minutes in the syrup until very tender. Allow to cool in the liquid. Put the fruits with a couple tablespoons liquid, if available, into the work bowl of a food processor and purée. Add egg, butter, sugar and extracts and process to mix, about 30 seconds. Fold the chocolate into the batter.

Position oven rack in center of oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9 x 3” loaf pan and dust with plain bread crumbs.

2. Meanwhile, sift flour, baking soda, cream of tartar and salt in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the fruit and egg mixture, stirring just until the flour is thoroughly incorporated. The mixture will be a bit chunky. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for 50 minutes, or until a wooden skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool the loaf thoroughly in the pan on a wire rack. Turn loaf out for serving. Can be prepared up to one day ahead. Store in covered cake stand or wrap in foil.