Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

We’ve had enough positive fish press to know that
fish is good for us. It is a good source of protein, it’s low
in saturated fat and it contains heart healthy omega-3 fatty acids.
We have also been told that some fish contain dangerous levels of mercury
– so, should we eat fish? A resounding yes! Among the better choices
are salmon, with some of the highest levels of omega 3’s –
cod, flounder and pollock are also excellent choices.
The versatility of the white “flaky meat” of cod makes it
thoroughly appealing and it is currently available locally due to the
colder weather. Cod can be baked, broiled, boiled, fried or preserved
in salt for the esteemed salt cod – so important to Italian, Spanish
and Portuguese cuisines. From the simple paprika, pan roasted cod to
the quickly broiled fillet of scrod, to the stylish roasted cod with
salsa verde, delicious choices can be made to fit your cooking frame
of mind.
PAPRIKA FLAVORED PAN ROASTED COD
The Spanish use paprika a great deal when seasoning food. Here I adapted
the seasoning to a food that is familiar to the Spanish and Portuguese.
Serves 4
Cod fillet cut into 4 portions, about 6-7 ounces each, bones removed
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
1 1/2 teaspoons Spanish paprika
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup canola or vegetable oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1. Rinse fillets and pat dry with paper towels. Combine panko crumbs,
paprika and salt and pepper on a large plate. Dredge fish fillets in
the crumb mixture coating both sides well.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
2. Heat oil in an ovenproof skillet until quite hot but not smoking.
Place fillets in pan, reduce heat to medium and sauté until crust
is golden brown, about 3-4 minutes. Turn fish skinned-side down and
transfer to oven. Roast about 3-4 minutes until firm but springy to
the touch. Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve at once.
BROILED FILET OF SCROD WITH SCALLION BREAD CRUMBS
Select large filets, at least 1/2 inch thickness at thickest points
for even cooking. To broil the fillets line a flat cookie sheet pan
with foil for quick and easy clean up.
Serves 4
1 pound “scrod” filets (baby cod)
4 thin slices white or whole wheat bread
2 bunches scallions, rinsed and trimmed
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat broiler to highest setting
1. Rinse filets and pat dry with paper towel. Arrange one layer deep
on a plate and set aside.
2. Tear bread into work bowl of food processor or blender and pulse
or blend until you have a coarse crumb. Transfer breadcrumbs to a mixing
bowl. Thinly slice scallions using the white and green parts and add
to the crumbs. Add capers and a light sprinkle of salt and pepper. Toss
to mix with olive oil to moisten.
3. Scoop up a palm full of the seasoned breadcrumbs and coat one side
of each filet evenly using half the mixture. Line a baking sheet with
aluminum foil, shiny side down, and place the coated fish filets on
it. Broil about 3-4 inches from the source of heat for 2 minutes. Remove
fish from oven. With a wide metal spatula carefully turn over filets
and coat the other side with remaining breadcrumb mixture. Return to
broiler and cook for 2 minutes longer or until fish is springy, but
firm to the touch. Serve at once.
ROASTED COD WITH SALSA VERDE
Cod is generally sold skinned. It is best to call your fishmonger ahead
of time to order skin-on cod.
Serves 6
Salsa verde*
1 cup chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and chopped
2 anchovies minced
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
For the fish
4 tablespoons peanut oil
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
6 - 1 1/4-inch-thick skin-on cod fillets
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 sprigs fresh thyme
About 1 1/4 cup salsa verde*
1. Combine parsley, capers, anchovies and mustard in a bowl. Gradually
mix in just enough olive oil so the sauce holds together. Set aside.
Shortly before serving, add the lemon juice and adjust the seasoning
if necessary with salt and pepper.
2. Warm 2 large skillets over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of
oil to each pan. Salt and pepper the fish fillets and place three, skin-side
down, in each pan. Pan-roast the fish until the skin is crisp and the
flesh is opaque about a fourth of the way up each fillet, about 7 minutes.
Turn the fish fillets over and reduce the heat to medium. Add half the
butter and thyme to each skillet and cook, basting the fish with the
melted butter. Cook cod (which is best cooked through) about 5 minutes
more. The fish can alternatively be cooked in batches in one pan, wiping
the pan clean in between. Serve with salsa verde.