| Issue #40, January 12, 2007 |
Parto’s Restaurant & Pizzeria
12 West Main Street
Riverhead
631-727-4828
I have to say from the start that this has rapidly become one of our favorite restaurants. Once inside, the charming rustic décor immediately makes you think of Italy and this is precisely what Frank Spatola, the charming and totally enthusiastic chef/owner sets out to do. Frank is Sicilian born and very proud of his native country and cuisine and here at Parto’s, his emphasis is on being authentic and honest. During the time that I have been eating around the world and writing about food, the word ‘honest’ when applied to food, for me has taken on a very important meaning. Too often we see and taste mediocrity in the guise of pretentiousness at so-called bastions of haute cuisine or in mass prepared, processed fast foods at the other end of the eating spectrum. ‘Honest’ food though is not pretentious, uses the freshest and most correct ingredients and is prepared with care and, indeed, love! Parto’s has always more than met my criteria in these respects and tonight was to prove no exception, thank goodness.
A plate of cold antipasto was a visual treat and even more a treat for our taste buds, Mounds of home made Buffalo mozzarella, nestled in beds of prosciutto, flanked by artichoke hearts, olives, Parma ham, marinated red peppers, tomatoes, crisp lettuce with a dressing that drew all of these disparate tastes into a dish that you could happily make your full meal, especially with some extremely garlicky knots of bread.
This was a good evening to sample some hearty soups. The classic pasta fagioli and a deep tasting lentil soup, all freshly made each day, were heart warming and reinforced my long held view that one of the best ways to judge a restaurant is by the quality of its bread and soups.
We then sampled one of their special brick oven pizzas. The Margarita version is reputed to have been invented in Naples and named after the Queen of Italy, with the pesto, mozzarella and tomato representing the colors of the Italian flag. Until this pizza, my fondest recall was of the one I ate on the streets of Venice many years ago, but here Riverhead beat La Serenissima hands down. This really was a pizza of pizzas and I have no doubt what I am going to eat on my next visit to Parto’s.
From the array of baked dishes, we chose manicotti, excellent perfectly cooked pasta tubes with a delectable subtle but not over rich filling and sauce. Finally came one of the weekly specials, a breast of chicken cooked with Portobello mushrooms, leeks and sun dried tomato, in a delicate Marsala wine sauce. The taste symphony continued with this dish, which was perfect for a chill evening – or really for anytime at all!
Many Italian (and other restaurants) today tend to take the easy way out with desserts, opting for brought in versions but here, apart from a superb, wild berry cake that Frank imports from Italy, everything is homemade. The cannoli was made as we waited and was worth any wait – it really is that good. As for the tiramisu, this had to be one of the very best ever. Coupled with a very strong espresso and a dash of Sambucca, what a way to finish a truly enjoyable tasting evening. Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, eating the full serving of all that you try in the course of an evening’s tasting is not possible but everything we sampled was uniformly good and, to use that word again, Honest.
Apart from top quality food, cheerful and helpful service and attention to your needs, Parto’s also scores highly when you consider the prices. A plate of antipasti for $6; a pint of soup for $6; a 12 inch gourmet pizza in any of eleven variations (but do try the Margarita) for $11; baked specialties such as the manicotti or lasagna $11; entrees of chicken, veal or shrimp plus a choice of pasta for $13.50 to $16.50. You won’t get indigestion from staring at your bill, that’s for certain. Also Frank has a small but well-chosen wine list based on North Fork and Italian wineries with a glass for $5 to $6 and a bottle costing $18 to $20.
Frank Spatola is an enthusiast about his food and the result is that this is a true gem of a restaurant and I doubt you will find a better ‘Honest’ Italian meal for many miles around. Parto’s is a great place for casual meals or for celebrating special occasions. They are open for lunch and dinner seven days a week and deserve to be packed out!
Roy Bradbrook
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