Dan's Papers - Issue #42 - January 26, 2007

Issue #42, January 26, 2007

Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Colum

The orange is a 20 million year old (say paleobiologists) berry (say botanists) that is one of the five or six most important fruits in the world (say economists) and certainly among the most delicious (say gastronomists)’ as written in Food by Waverly Root, Simon and Schuster. I couldn’t agree more to the orange being one of the most delicious fruits. There is nothing like the tangy and refreshing sweetness of a freshly squeezed orange, the sweet juiciness of a tangerine or the tart burgundy juice of a blood orange. All citrus is especially high in vitamin C and very good for the relief of cold symptoms. Enough said – here are some tasty recipes.

Oranges and lemons make their way into a sprightly vinaigrette for a mixed greens and fennel salad, the grated peel of each is absorbed into a creamy pasta sauce and sliced oranges marinated in their own, along with a little lemon juice and a bit of sugar makes a happy and healthy ending to any meal.

GREENS, MINT AND FENNEL SALAD WITH CITRUS VINAIGRETTE

When using oranges for vinaigrette, use thin skinned juice oranges without too much pith.

Serves 4-6

For the salad

2 cups mixed salad greens
1/3 cup fresh mint leaves
1 head fennel

Citrus Vinaigrette

Juice of 1 large orange
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Coarse (kosher) salt
Pinch dry oregano
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed if salted

1. Mix of greens could include romaine, radicchio and arugula. Wash and spin dry the greens and separately include the mint leaves and then wrap in paper towel to absorb excess moisture. Rinse fennel, cut off feathery top and base then, with a sharp knife (or mandolin, if you have one) cut into paper thin slices. The salad ingredients can be prepared several hours ahead and refrigerated in plastic bags.

2. Prepare vinaigrette: Put orange juice, vinegar, salt to taste and oregano in a bowl and stir to mix. Slowly whisk in olive oil until mixture is homogenous. Taste to adjust for seasonings. Add capers and stir to mix.

3. When ready to serve, combine the greens and fennel in a bowl and carefully toss with the vinaigrette. Serve at once.

FETTUCINE WITH CREAM, LEMON AND ORANGE

The versatile flavor of lemon and orange enhance many different kinds of dishes. Grated lemon and orange peels flavor the cream sauce, which absorb the oils in the rind.

Serves 4 - 5

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup heavy cream
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground white pepper
Grated rind of 1 large lemon and 1 navel orange
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 pound fettucine, homemade if possible or good quality store-bought
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
3-4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1. Melt butter in a large skillet and add cream, salt and pepper to taste and bring to the edge of a simmer. Add grated rind from lemon and orange and turn off heat.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to the boil. Salt the water and put in the pasta. Return to boil and cook pasta at a rolling boil for 1 to 3 minutes, depending on dryness, or 8-10 minutes if good quality store bought, until al dente, firm to the bite.

3. Two or three minutes before pasta is done bring the sauce to a simmer, add the nutmeg and one-quarter cup pasta water; stir to mix. Drain the pasta and transfer to the skillet with the sauce. Toss well to mix, add cheese and parsley and serve at once.

MACERATED ORANGE SLICES

A refreshing and happy close to any meal.
Serves 4-6
6-8 navel oranges
Grated peel of 1 lemon
4-5 tablespoons granulated sugar
2-3 tablespoons lemon juice

1. Peel 4-6 oranges. Using a very sharp stainless steel paring knife slice off the top and bottom of the oranges. Working from top to bottom cut away peel and pith in long strokes, following the curve of the flesh.

2. Cut the oranges horizontally into 3/8 inch thick slices. Remove any seeds with the tip of your knife. Put the slices in a shallow serving bowl then grate the lemon peel directly over the orange slices. (Avoid grating the white pulp beneath the peel.) Add the sugar. Squeeze the remaining oranges and add their juice to the bowl. Add the lemon juice. Turn the oranges a few times with a large rubber spatula being careful not to break them up. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours, or overnight.

3. Serve chilled, carefully turning the slices once or twice, just before serving.

Adapted from Marcella Hazan’s The Classic Italian Cookbook, Harpers Magazine Press