Issue #48, March 9, 2007

Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

The celebratory South Beach Food and Wine Festival, held in Miami Beach in late February, invited guests to experience some of the finest food and wine this side of heaven. It had to be the ultimate gastronomic event of the year. In just one aspect of the festival, highly visible TV celebrities from the Food Network, its title sponsor, were on hand to thrill visitors with their presence. Three tented stages were set up right on the sand of Miami’s gorgeous South Beach where, through the weekend, culinary celebrities such as Rachel Ray, Tyler Florence, Giada De Laurentis, Bobby Flay, Nigella Lawson and a host of celebrity chefs gave seminars and demonstrations.

Rachel Ray prepared a tortilla soup but didn’t have to cook a thing. She mesmerized her audience with her adorable chit-chat, humor and naturalness. When asked by an audience participant why the same 30-minute menu that Rachel cooks on television takes her an hour to cook, Rachel replied that, “It takes me an hour when I’m at home, too!” Another quip that was told was about when Rachel tried to learn the fine art of chopping from one of the Food Network’s chefs and she commented that she “nearly busted an artery.” Meanwhile, Tyler Florence, while deftly preparing his mélange of vegetables for a ratatouille, was asked by a guest for a suggestion for the ultimate dinner to get her boyfriend to propose. Well, Tyler just said to the boyfriend in the audience, “Marry the girl.” And the entire audience was behind him with loud applause! Stunning Nigella didn’t have to cook a thing. Her program was called Ask Nigella, and she answered questions with intelligence, elegance and charm. The audience was enthralled.

The Grand Tasting Villages consisted of two tents along the surf and sand, each one at least three city blocks long and filled to the brim with station to station food trends, wines, spirits and beverage offerings. I could hardly enumerate but I will leave you with this – Bouley’s miniature truffle buns sandwiching a spread of foie gras. Need I say more!

MEXICAN TORTILLA SOUP

Silvia’s adaptation!

Serves 6

6 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade
1 bunch scallions, trimmed, rinsed and thinly sliced
1 large carrot, trimmed, peeled and cut into small dice
1 rib celery, trimmed, rinsed and cut into small dice
1 small or 1/2 serrano pepper, seeded and diced
2-3 plum tomatoes peeled, seeded and diced
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt or to taste
3-4 medium tortillas*
2-3 tablespoons, chopped cilantro
1 ripe avocado for garnish
2-3 teaspoons fresh lime juice

1. Put the broth in a saucepan and add the scallions, carrots, celery, pepper, tomatoes, bay leaves and salt. Bring to the edge of a boil and simmer for 10-12 minutes, with cover ajar.

2. Meanwhile, toast the tortillas, one at a time in a dry skillet, for a few seconds on each side until lightly puffed. When cool and crisp break into pieces and set aside.

3. When ready to serve, remove bay leaves and discard. Reheat the soup and stir in the cilantro. Stir the soup with a ladle to distribute the ingredients and ladle into warm bowls. Garnish soup with tortilla chips, top with 2-3 slices of avocado and a drizzle of lime juice.

TYLER FLORENCE’S RATATOUILLE

An interpretation of Tyler Florence’s ratatouille as prepared at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival.

Serves 4-6

2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2-3 Italian baby eggplants, trimmed and cut into cubes
2-3 zucchini, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1-2 onions, thinly sliced
1/2 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
3-4 anchovies, optional
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Julienne of fresh basil and thyme leaves

1. Heat the oil in a large 12-inch skillet and put in the eggplant. Saute for a few minutes to lightly glaze the vegetable and put in the zucchini and onion, toss to coat with the eggplant and saute for a few more minutes. Stir in the anchovies, if using, mashing with the back of a spoon, add the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover the pan and simmer over medium-low heat until vegetables are tender, about 20-25 minutes. Add the basil and thyme and stir through the mixture. Taste to adjust seasoning as necessary and serve warm.

Silvia’s note: It’s a good idea to prepare ratatouille ahead for flavors to develop. Transfer to an oven-proof baking dish and reheat at 350 degrees for 15-20 minutes before serving.

SNAPPER VERA CRUZ

As prepared by Miami Beach’s star chef, Chef Allen Susser

Serves 4

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
14 1/2 ounce can diced tomatoes with liquid
1/2 cup green pitted Spanish olive, drained
1/4 cup capers, drained
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 packet chicken and tomato bouillon
1 1/2 pounds red snapper fillets
1/4 teaspoon kosher) salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1. Preheat a large, sturdy, 12-inch saute pan over medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Add oil and swirl to coat. Add garlic and saute about 30-40 seconds, being careful not to burn. Stir in tomatoes and simmer about 3 minutes. Add the olives, capers, wine and bouillon. Cook at a brisk simmer about 8 minutes until mixture thickens slightly.

2. Meanwhile, rinse and dry fillets with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Place fish in the skillet spooning over tomato sauce to coat the fish. Reduce heat to medium-low and with cover ajar, cook the fish about 8 minutes or until fish is opaque. Serve warm.