Issue #49, March 16, 2007

Twentysomething…

The Surfboard

By David Lion Rattiner

Whenever you meet a guy that surfs, you know that you have just met somebody who is jazzed about life. Today, surfers are not just teenagers from California. They are of every age group and of every class. There are no differences when you’re out there in the lineup, except for who can ride a wave better.

What is it about surfing that makes surfers so excited? You get the feeling that they are the happiest guys and gals in the world, and usually they are. Perhaps it is the lifestyle, the laid back attitude, the warm weather, the hard bodies or the tanned skin that puts the smile on their face. Who am I kidding? It is the thrill of the ride every surfer feels when they tame a wave. It’s man and nature that is unlike any other sport. Not even skiing can compare. After all, you need a machine to take you to the top of a mountain.

Sorry to all of the skiers out there.

I have been trying to be a surfer since I was twelve years old. I love being in the ocean, that much is true, but I have never really owned surfing. I’ve always been somewhat okay at it and I’ve always blamed it on the fact that I never got the right board. I can think of maybe ten times in my life where the ocean and I just danced together. But that’s about it. The rest of the time I would be kissing jellyfish.

Am I radical? Not really. Do I fit in with the surfer dudes? Not at all, but I still can’t help myself. I just get a big smile on my face when I see anything that has to do with surfing and I probably will until I die. I mean, how awesome is the movie “The Endless Summer?” It just never gets old.

Spring is here. I could feel it in the air on Sunday, and for the past five years, I have been planning on purchasing a new surfboard. My day came yesterday in Sag Harbor. I walked right into Island Surf, located on Main Street and was determined to make a new surfboard happen. Island Surf is a local shop owned by local surfer Shawn Mett who hails from Westhampton. The youthful surf shop owner had a sale going that I couldn’t pass up — buy any surfboard new and get yourself any wetsuit for just $50. It was going to be a glorious day. This deal will still be going on by the time you read this.

“I need something that I can have a good time on. I’m not looking to go pro.”

Instantly, Shawn sized me up and figured out a good board for me. You know you are in good hands when it is somebody who cares more about the sport than they do about the sale. Shawn is one of those guys. You can see it in his eyes.

If you are ready to make the summer really happen, I’d definitely, among other places, stop by Island Surf in Sag Harbor on the weekend and talk to Shawn. He’ll point you in the right direction.

It was as if the surfboard gods spoke to me and told me to get this board. It is a beautiful 8’0 board custom-designed and shaped by local North Sea surfboard shaper JF. Shawn was smiling as he held it out. “This one is really awesome and would be perfect for you.”

I could see that he was really excited about this surfboard. Its specialness was what I liked about it the most. There was only one board in the world made like this board. It was made by hand, crafted by a passionate surfer in his garage. This is what it is all about.

It may be cold now, but I’m not going to be the one without a surfboard a few weeks from now when beach days will be plentiful. Having the right surfboard at the right time keeps a guy sane. It is also one of the many things that reminds you why the heck you chose to be out here in the first place..