Issue #49, March 16, 2007

Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

It’s March and Irish or not, here in the States St. Patrick’s Day simply isn’t St. Patrick’s Day without a succulent plate of corned beef and cabbage. To approximate the time-honored taste, purchase a corned brisket pickled in brine – available as fresh corned beef from your butcher shop. The tough fibers of the meat cook gently to a succulent tenderness when boiled with carrots, potatoes and cabbage. Serve the dish with a flavorful mustard horseradish condiment.

My daughter’s father-in-law, whose mother was from Northern Ireland, cooks up mulligatawny soup for St. Patrick’s Day. His traditional Anglicized version is chock full of hearty vegetables to ward off the chills of March. North Haven resident Lilia Collins, a dear friend and a fabulous cook, loves to prepare Irish soda bread even though she is of Italian descent. Lilia remembers how, as a young bride, she and her husband Michael, no doubt of Irish heritage, met a Mrs. Kelly, who spoke in a thick Irish brogue. While she treasures Mrs. Kelly’s recipe, which yields two breads, Lilia tweaked it a bit to bake three breads. Not one to waste, Lilia prefers to use the entire quart of buttermilk called for in the recipe to accommodate three breads. “The breads freeze beautifully,” says Lilia, “and can be served as a savory or a sweet.” Serve with softened, unsalted butter for breakfast or a spread of jam for a sweet treat. Lilia added, “it makes great French toast. Enjoy with a mug of Irish coffee.”

Irish or not, here are a few recipes directly from Ireland to celebrate this weekend with. Have a happy St. Patrick’s Day.

BOB PETERSEN’S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP

An Anglicized version of a traditional Indian soup.

Serves 8

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 carrots, peeled and diced
3 celery ribs, trimmed, rinsed and diced
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced
1 large boiling potatoes, peeled and diced
2-3 teaspoons fine quality curry powder
6-7 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 – 2 cups diced cooked chicken
2-3 tablespoons chopped parsley garnish

1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onions, carrots and celery. Sauté vegetables in oil for 3-4 minutes. Add the apple and potato and toss to mix. Stir in curry powder and stir a minute or so longer. Cover vegetables with a square of wax paper then cover saucepan to “sweat the vegetables” over low heat for 6-7 minutes. Remove cover and discard wax paper.

2. Add broth, tomato paste and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to medium. With cover ajar, cook the soup at a brisk simmer, stirring occasionally until vegetables are tender, about 25-30 minutes. The soup can be prepared ahead of time and frozen in a suitable container.

3. When ready to serve, bring soup up to heat and stir in the chicken. Simmer for a few minutes until heated through. Serve in warm bowls and sprinkle with parsley.

LILIA COLLINS’ IRISH SODA BREAD

The recipe is best baked in a cast iron skillet but can also be baked in 8-inch baking pans. For practical reasons, Lilia tweaked this recipe to prepare three breads so as not to waste any excess buttermilk.

Makes 3 breads

8 cups all-purpose flour
1/3-cup baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups sugar
2 1/2 cups raisins (15 1/2 oz box)
3 large eggs
2 1/2 tablespoons caraway seeds, optional
1-quart buttermilk

Butter for baking skillet

1. Put flour in a large mixing bowl with baking soda, salt and sugar. Stir to mix ingredients very well. Add raisins and stir to coat in the flour mixture.

2. Beat eggs in a separate bowl and stir in caraway seeds, if using, then add the buttermilk and stir to mix.

3. Add liquid ingredients to the dry mixture just until moistened. Be careful not to over-mix the batter. Mixture will be quite thick.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

4. Butter a cast iron skillet’s bottom and sides very well and pour in one-third of the soda bread batter. Butter two additional skillets or two 8-inch baking pans and fill with the remaining batter. Bake the breads on the middle oven rack for 25 minutes until a cake tester or wooden skewer comes out clean. Place the breads on a cooling rack. Extra breads may be frozen.

LILIA COLLINS’ IRISH COFFEE

Brew a fresh pot of coffee to the strength you prefer. For each serving, stir in one to two tablespoons Irish whiskey and two teaspoons sugar. Then, sweeten with a head of freshly whipped cream. Enjoy with Irish Soda Bread.