Sunless Tanning

By Susanna Brock
The Nor'easter outside may make
sunny beaches seem a distant thought, but Memorial Day weekend
and the start of summer is only six weeks away. Yes, it is only
a matter of time before the legions of weary winter people come
back to the East End of Long Island in search of a bronze healthy
glow. But for those of us who still hear our 8th grade science
teacher lecturing about sunscreen and hats for all outdoor activities
how can we rid ourselves of being pasty and pale? The first option,
which I have found quite popular myself, is to dismiss the pain
of sunburns as a mere inconvenience that must be born like stockings
and stilettos in the quest for feminine beauty. This worked quite
well for me until someone explained that a sunburn is actually
your skin cells committing mass suicide. Ouch. Suddenly I felt
sorry for all those little suckers. Peeling skin is actually the
body's way of discarding skin that could become cancerous.
Luckily, there seems to be a prospering
industry around ensuring that everyone can look brown, beautiful
and cancer-free. Sunless tanning lotions were developed in the
1960s in response to the growing evidence that linked sun exposure
and skin cancer. Nearly all sunless tanning lotions today contain
the active ingredient dihydroxyacetone (DHA). The tan that results
from products with DHA is not from a dye or paint, but a chemical
reaction between DHA and the amino acids in the outer layers of
dead skin. The reaction is not toxic and does not have any of
the ill effects of UV exposure. Many of these products can be
bought at a local pharmacy and applied at home.
A second safe option is to have
a professional apply a sunless tanning product in a salon or spa.
Often called "airbrush tanning," a technician will spray the individual
from head to toe to ensure a smooth, natural looking tan. I called
a local salon to inquire about this method and was reassured that
the tan color can be adjusted by the number of layers that are
sprayed on. A spray tan appointment takes thirty minutes, 15 for
spraying and 15 for drying. After the treatment you cannot shower
or come in contact with water for eight hours. Due to the torrential
rain forecast, I decided against making an appointment.
Any product that advertises as
a "tanning pill" should be avoided. The myth of tanning pills
has been difficult to kill. But the truth is that only one thing
can create a natural tan, and that is melanocytes, the specialized
skin cells that produce the skin pigment melanin. Melanocytes
make melanin all year round, but in response to exposure to UV
radiation they make more melanin to absorb the UV radiation in
an attempt to protect the cells' DNA. There are also pills available
that contain the amino acid tyrosine, which claims to be able
to stimulate the creation of melanin. It is true that the body
needs tyrosine to create melanin, but tyrosine is a nonessential
amino acid, meaning the body makes it on its own and doesn't need
to be supplemented through diet.
Other pills are marketed that contain
caretenoid pigments, commonly used as a color additive in food.
The pigment is deposited in the fatty layers beneath the skin,
which appears to give the skin color. The FDA has banned caretenoids
because the pigments can be deposited in the eyes and permanently
damage vision. However, there is some hope left for those who
want a miracle tan pill; the product melanotan, which is a melanocyte
stimulating hormone, has not yet been approved for clinical trials
in the US, but has been extensively tested in Australia.
Finally, I felt compelled to investigate
the myriad lotions that now call themselves "bronzers," or promise
an "energy-glow." Are these just self-tanners masquerading under
new names? The short answer is yes. At the moment, the only approved
active ingredient for self-tanners is DHA. Some lotions contain
2-3% DHA and others 4-5%, but it's all the same stuff. There are
of course cosmetic products that claim "bronzing" effects and
can be easily washed off with soap and water.
So where does this leave us? Probably
not far from where we started; in the bathroom naked, craning
our necks to make sure we haven't missed a spot with our latest
wonder lotion and then dashing outside with a grimace (and a hat!)
and the hope that our melanocytes don't mind doing just a little
extra work to cover up those parts that came out complete with
orange hand prints.