Issue #50, March 23, 2007

Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column

I’m having a dinner party. The challenge is that I’m not in my bright, spacious country kitchen at home on the East End, with a 5’, square marble Island, professional 6-burner range, stainless steel appliances and more than enough equipment to satisfy any professional chef. I’m in south Miami Beach, where my husband and I are enjoying a bit of a winter retreat. Yes I know, lucky too, to beat some very harsh winter weather.

While the basics are all here including a stove, fridge, dishwasher, the limitations of T-fal cookware, no roasting pan or cookie sheet in sight and of course no Cuisinart. But there is a blender, a terrific electric juicer and surprisingly good knives and even a cutting board – I’m all set.

I found a broiler pan in the bottom oven draw, the base of which can double as a baking pan and chose a broiled salmon recipe on a bed of leek julienne – I love leek. Salmon steaks are seasoned with a savory mix of salt, pepper, fresh thyme and white wine and a fine compliment is the simple and classic roasted new potatoes with rosemary. I can surely whip up a buttery lemon curd to serve in wine glasses topped with crushed Graham crackers and fresh strawberries for a luscious dessert. I think my guests will be pleased.

BROILED SALMON STEAKS WITH JULIENNE OF LEEK

When broiling fish, use a non-stick baking pan or brush a conventional pan with oil and broil on one side only.

Serves 6

3 leeks, trimmed and rinsed clean
2 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 salmon steaks, 1 - 1 1/4-inch thick
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons of fresh thyme leaves
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
2/3 cup dry white wine or 1/3 cup dry vermouth

1. Leeks can harbor lots of sand between the layers; be sure to trim and clean them very well. Hold on to the core end and cut leeks lengthwise into quarters. Soak leeks in fresh water for about 15 minutes to rid excess sand. Drain leeks and dry well on paper towels.

2. Heat vegetable oil and butter in a large non-stick skillet. When butter melts and foam subsides, put in the leek and saute for about 10-12 minutes over very low heat, toss occasionally until lightly golden and crisp. Keep warm.

3. Meanwhile, season steaks with oil, thyme sprigs and salt and pepper. Pat the seasonings down gently. Can be done ahead.

4. Preheat broiler to highest setting. Place the steaks on a lightly greased baking pan. Pour wine around the salmon and broil about 4-inches from the source of heat for about 8 minutes until tender and springy to the touch. Serve on a bed of warm leek.

ROAST NEW POTATOES WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY

Par boil the smallest new potatoes you can find then roast until crusty on the outside and tender within.

Serves 6-8

2 1/2 pounds small new potatoes
Coarse (kosher) salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3-4 large cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
2 heaping tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
Freshly ground pepper

1. Scrub unpeeled potatoes and place in a large saucepan with cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat and season the water with 1 tablespoon coarse salt. Adjust heat and simmer briskly for 10 minutes.

2. Drain the potatoes and transfer to a shallow terra cotta or Pyrex baking dish. Drizzle olive oil over potatoes and turn carefully to coat. Sprinkle over garlic slices and chopped rosemary. Generously sprinkle with coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Can be prepared up to several hours ahead. Preheat oven to 400 degrees

3. Place baking dish, containing potatoes, in preheated oven and roast for 35-40 minutes until crusty outside and tender within. Serve hot.

LEMON CURD PARFAIT

Place creamy lemon curd in a martini or wine glass, top with crushed Graham cracker crumbs and top with fresh berries.

Serves 6

For the lemon curd

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
Grated rind of 1 lemon
Pinch salt
4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2/3 cup sugar
4 eggs
1 egg yolks

To finish

Crushed Graham cracker crumbs
Fresh berries

1. Melt butter in a small saucepan. Add rind, salt, lemon juice and sugar. Stir to mix.

2. In a mixing bowl, whisk the yolks and whites together until combined. Gradually pour into the lemon mixture whisking vigorously over very low heat. Then, with a wooden spoon, stir the mixture constantly until thick and the curd coats the spoon for about 6-7 minutes.

3. Prepare lemon curd up to a week ahead and refrigerate in a suitable container. When ready to serve spoon into serving glass, sprinkle over graham cracker crumbs and top with fresh berries of your choice.