Restaurant Review: South Edison

I love to take a drive out to Montauk once in a while. When I know there’s good food waiting at The End, the drive is even more pleasant.

I’d been hearing good things about South Edison since it opened last June. But my family and I were unprepared for how good Chef Todd Mittgang’s food is.

In fact, everything is well done at South Edison. The décor is fun, minimal and funky. A graphic red lobster dominates on walls and staff t-shirts. The solid orange bicycle above the coffee bar is a nice touch.

Our server, Eimear, was efficient and eager to please. A friendly, attractive staff is always a good start. [expand]

Husband began with a Greenacres, composed of Hendricks gin, cucumber, watermelon and lemon thyme. He pronounced it “good” and moved on to red wine, Truchard’s 2008 Pinot Noir. I indulged in an LiV Basil Gimlet. The vodka was mixed with basil, black pepper and fresh lime. It was pleasantly sour; basil is the grown-up’s mint.

South Edison’s Wine List contains a selection of Californians and wines from France and Italy, as well as local favorites from Channing Daughters, Roanoke and Wölffer. Each wine is followed by a helpful flavor profile. Beers include Sixpoint, Southampton Double White, Pabst Blue Ribbon and Porkslap, among others.

I started with a Summer Salad that was remarkably flavorful and remarkably fresh, gorgeously crowned with pea shoots. Asparagus, fennel, fava beans, pea purée, pistachios, piave, lemon black pepper vinaigrette, yum.

Teenage Boy latched onto ordering the Olive Oil Braised Octopus Tacos right away. The octopus, Maitake mushroom, roasted tomato and guajillo chili salsa, pickled red onion, crème and queso cotija earned the singular comment between bites, “This is so good!”

Husband started with a Spicy Tuna BLT Chapula. Smoked bacon, heirloom tomato, Serrano chili and crema inside a corn tortilla. He found it quite spicy, but it was gone in a flash. He moved on to the Grilled Local Swordfish Kebob. He characterized the caramelized Santa Claus melon chunks as “really interesting in a great way.” Served with curried beluga lentils, shallots, crispy chili prosciutto salad and fresh garbanzo beans, the swordfish clearly delighted. I only got a small spoonful of curried bits.

I tried the South Edison Lobster Roll. The thin, crab-seasoned fries are quite good—Teenage Boy inhaled most of them. The fresh warmed butter and black garlic mayonnaise effectively gilded the lily—the lobster chunks were particularly tender and sweet.

For dessert my guys each got a decaf cappuccino. Husband stopped there. Teenage Boy forged ahead to the Ice Cream Sandwich. The big scoop of salted caramel ice cream between remarkably thin but deeply rich brownies was sublime. I thoroughly enjoyed my Carrot Cake Cupcake. I had them hold the funfetti, which made for precisely the right ratio of cream cheese dressing to nicely textured, nutty cake. The candied ginger on the side allows one to precisely control one’s ginger ratio. So technical, so perfect. And here’s “the icing on the cake,” this cupcake is muffin-size….

South Edison, 17 South Edison Street, Montauk. 631-668-4200. www.southedison.com. [/expand]