Restaurant Review: Bobby Van's

I’m all for earthy, ethnic hole-in-the-wall eateries – but sometimes a white tablecloth lunch is just the thing. Bobby Van’s Steakhouse on Main Street in Bridgehampton offers that kind of classy service seven days a week. I often go there for business meetings and for fun meetings over food and drinks. It’s a good standby for dinner and perfect for Valentine’s Day eating and quaffing…

I don’t generally do steak for lunch, something lighter appeals. Bobby Van’s Executive Chef John R. Stella offers plenty of options. My co-editrix, Kelly Laffey, joined me for lunch there on Thursday.

We decided to start with soups, or rather, in Kelly’s case, bisque. She found her Lobster Bisque “bubbling hot, smooth and delicious.” I started with the Asparagus Puree, which was simple in the best way – smooth and deep green with crisp-tender cross-cut slices of fresh asparagus. Just the right amount of salt inspired me to eat every drop. Bobby Van’s portions run to the generous side.

I moved on to the Lobster Roll. Interestingly, it’s served upright on the plate, ringed by a colorful sauce. In fact there’s no roll – it’s a wrap. Unfortunately the wrap itself is dry and bland, but the interior is all that it should be – luscious lobster and crunchy diced celery.

Kelly quite liked her Turkey Wrap served on a charger-sized plate, noting happily that “They didn’t overdo it on the mayo.” The avocado, tomato, lettuce, cabbage, alfalfa sprouts and turkey breast meat worked for her. She also quite enjoyed her pile of slender, salty French fries.

Since we had an afternoon of editing ahead of us back at the office, we chose to forgo drinks, but for future reference noted that the Wine List includes local faves Wolffer, Raphael and Lieb… You can see Bobby Van’s full wine list and menu on their website.

We were tempted by the Dessert Menu which included Cheesecake, Flourless Chocolate Cake, Ice Cream, Sorbet and – my son’s favorite – a Banana Split – but we were strong and returned to the office sans gateau et crème glacée. We also passed on cappuccino and espresso, editing Dan’s Papers keeps us on our toes more than any caffeine hit could.

When you think of Bobby Van’s, think of – not just steak and salad but – many options served impeccably.

Bobby Van’s, 2393 Montauk Highway, Bridgehampton. 631-537-0590. bobbyvans.com. Additional locations in New York and Washington, D.C.