Hamptons Restaurant Review: Beaumarchais a La Plage

You might get the impression that Beaumarchais a La Plage is more about the scene than the food. It’s definitely a scene. Valet parking, music pumping, a handsome attendant minding the doors of the (ooh la la) unisex restrooms. I thought our hostess was dancing along to the music as she showed my husband and me to our table. But, I soon realized that that’s just the way she has to walk to stay on top of her high, high heels.

Beaumarchais a La Plage is a recent transplant from the City of Food. There Beaumarchais is famously popular.

Here Beaumarchais is really hot. From the packed parking lot to the European-style outdoor heaters. Right on Three Mile Harbor Road, it may not look like Capri from the outside – but it certainly sounds like it. It was pointed out to me that this restaurant is run by career staff. That’s serious foodyism. Our server Celine was so genuinely French that when she described Italian menu items she could describe them with an Italian inflection on top of her lovely French pronunciations. Very international, much like the menu and the attitude.

I was late meeting Husband. He’d settled in at the beautiful big bar. He said he quite enjoyed a Beaumarchais Limonade, which is Belvedere vodka, cucumber juice, lemon juice and mint.

We sat outside where the heaters made it quite comfortable. The sound of passing traffic was at times noticeable but not at all troublesome. Typically the music and conversation masked it. Ah, Capri on a road that only fishermen and assorted locals used to travel…

The all-ages crowd was clearly ready to chow down in style to the funky music.

Celine said, “Champagne for madame?” in such a way that I knew it was the right thing to do. (The phrase “Champagne for madame?” is French for “Thank God it’s Friday.”) I expect that many occasions at Beaumarchais give rise to popping champagne corks.

Celine heartily approved of our selection of the Burrata for Two to start. Two soft globes of fresh mozzarella served with cherry tomato-filled vinaigrette of balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. Nicely chilled, so rich.

Again Celine heartily approved of my choice – the Coquilles Saint Jacques, pan-seared sea scallops served on a spring pea puree, garnished with peas and Meyer lemon. Its Parmesan shavings became one with the beurre blanc in a heady, salty blur.

Husband ordered the Grilled Shrimp. Beautiful, brightly colored grilled shrimp served with yellow and green squash, eggplant and herb pistou broth. He found it a bit salty overall. But quite enjoyed it with a nice French Chardonnay that Celine had suggested.

We passed on dessert but Husband quite liked his café latte.

Beaumarchais a La Plage, 44 Three Mile Harbor Road, East Hampton, 212-675-2400, www.brasseriebeaumarchais.com. You can sample some of the best that Beaumarchais La Plage has to offer at Dan’s Papers Taste of Two Forks on July 14—check out the many participating restaurants, wineries and food purveyors at www.tasteoftwoforks.com