Restaurant Review: Good Things Brewing at Brewology in Speonk

New to Speonk in July, Brewology is a gastropub that puts as much emphasis on its cuisine as it does on its ever-changing selection of 24 craft beers on tap.

My fiancée, a gourmand, had eaten at Brewology twice before and enjoyed herself, so my expectations were high when we went together for dinner recently—and my expectations were exceeded.

In both atmosphere and its menu, Brewology aims to be contemporary casual. Edison bulbs hang from exposed beams above the U-shaped brick-clad bar, where the taps are at the center. Rather than trying to read a crowd of tap handles, bar patrons and diners are given a menu with detailed descriptions of each beer, and they just give a number from 1 to 24 to place their pint order.

Brewology carries only small-batch craft brews, and the kegs change frequently.

Prices range from $5 to $9 for a pint. If you are indecisive—or just want to try them all—a flight of four beers is $11.

For my flight, I first looked for beers from Long Island, and picked Great South Bay Brewery Bay-linerweisse from Bay Shore and Greenport Harbor Brewing Company’s Hopnami. With some helpful guidance from our waitress, I finished the quartet with Empire Brewing Company Cream Ale from Syracuse and Long Trail Brewing Company Harvest from Bridgewaters Corners, Vermont.

All were great cool-weather brews, but the Cream Ale really stood out. I ordered a pint, which came in a 500-milliliter beaker, another one of the ways that Brewology expresses its unique character.

Rather than a basket of bread, the waitress arrived with fresh-from-the-oven pretzels and honey mustard dipping sauce. The water comes in a chilled milk jug, with a charcoal stick that provides filtration and better taste.

The warm pretzels are a great treat, pair well with beer and they got us excited for what was to come.

For a starter, there are a number of choices, including crispy calamari ($14), mussels with “chef’s whim” broth and crostini ($16) and a charcuterie plate ($20/$32). We picked from among the flatbreads ($16), which are large enough for three or four people to split as an appetizer. We picked the duck flatbread just in time, because there was only one left. As soon as I had my first bite, it was clear why this dish “flies” out of the kitchen. The duck confit—with cherry BBQ sauce, braised leeks, manchego cheese and sunny-side-up eggs—was rich and delicious.

For my entrée, I ordered the rack of ribs ($27), which was another feat by executive chef Chris Zullo. The large rack of braised pork ribs, served with oven-roasted potatoes and carrots, is covered in a Bourbon glaze that is delectable.

After the flatbread, a generous portion of ribs, and our splitting a side of mac ’n’ cheese ($15) with gouda, taleggio, fontina and cheddar sauce with toasted corn bread crumbs, we nearly brushed off dessert. But we just couldn’t resist the suggestion of pumpkin cheesecake ($10). This seasonal special with graham cracker crust, caramel, brandied cherry sauce and spiced whipped cream was the perfect way to top off our meal. The root beer float, skillet apple pie and Mississippi mud fudge tart piqued our interest as well. There are a number of dessert cocktails ($12) to choose from too, including the Brewology Explosion, a frozen stout milk shake with Irish whisky, chocolate chip cookie and Bailey’s
whipped cream.

Sitting down for a multi-course dinner made for a great experience at Brewology, while it was also apparent that it’s a perfect place to drop in for a quick drink and burger—angus ($13), short rib meat and pulled pork ($17), turkey ($15) and veggie ($14)—at the bar.

Brewology is open for dinner seven nights a week and offers weekend brunch.

Brewology, 295 Montauk Highway, Speonk, 631-801-6221, brewologypub.com