Restaurant Review: Mirabelle Restaurant

I recently returned to Stony Brook for dinner at the Three Village Inn. My husband and I had not had the pleasure in years—not since we were in graduate school at Stony Brook University.

Much has changed in the historic village—with the addition of the Jazz Loft and the Reboli Center for Art and History, but the Three Village Inn remains Stony Brook Village’s pulsing, waterside heart.

In addition to Mirabelle Restaurant & Tavern, the Three Village Inn offers hotel rooms, cottages, event space and off-site catering. As we made our way to the serene quiet of the Capt. Jonas Smith Room to dine, a boisterous anniversary celebration was being held in a room adjacent to the tavern. We didn’t know that Sundays are “uncorked,” as in no corkage fee. I’ve given up my dear friend alcohol for Lent—only drinking “professionally.” My husband may have given up inhibitions for Lent. He ordered a glass of Paumanok Vineyard’s Chenin Blanc even before devouring the dinner menu. Mirabelle’s wine list features a selection of East End favorites, including bottles from Lenz Winery and Sparkling Pointe. Many beers are on offer, including some from Blue Point Brewery, Long Ireland Beer Company, Montauk Brewing Company and Port Jeff Brewing Company. I love that you can get a flight of three beers for $9. (I can’t, until next time.)

Our server said that his name is Louis. He was so polite and helpful, I wasn’t rude enough to ask if all of the servers at Mirabelle adopt names of French kings. We found the service in this establishment courteous and speedy throughout.

I started with a Mirabelle Cocktail of Prosecco and Mirabelle Eau de Vie. (“Eau” means water, right?) I nursed this delightfully light and flowery beverage throughout my meal.

Of course I ordered from the Farm to Table Prix Fixe Menu—they had me at “Farm.” It’s only $36 Monday through Thursday and $38 Friday through Sunday, so it’s a good bet that I would have ordered this very thing if I were not out on Dan’s Hamptons Media’s dime.

The perfect soft rock hit sifted down from above as I dipped a spoon into my Lobster Bisque—Gordon Lightfoot’s Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald. This song brings to mind watery depths, as does this dish, with its layers of rich but mellow, savory flavor.

I moved on to the Pan-Roasted Pork Loin with cream of polenta, slice of chorizo and colorful sweet peppers. Despite the fact that I committed the sin of ordering my pork well-done, Executive Chef Guy Reuge rendered it tender and moist. The peppers collapsed into a state of next-level pepperness and the various flavors melded pleasingly. So pleasingly, that I ate every bite.

You know you’re not in the Hamptons anymore when you receive sizeable portions like these!

Flammkuchen (“cake baked in flames”) is on the regular dinner menu so of course Husband, who studied in Germany and loves all Germanic food, ordered this thin-crusted Alsatian treat covered with sour cream, onions and bacon. But before those four big slices arrived, we indulged in sharing an order of garlic sausage en croûte. Europeans love sausages. What’s not to love?

Husband was tempted to try the Monkfish Osso Buco, but instead ordered the Pan-Seared Branzino. His only comment between bites was, “This is…this is, quite delicious!”

We were much too full for dessert. We’d like to go back to Mirabelle on a Friday soon for a taste of Reuge’s 7-Course Chef’s Tasting Menu with wine pairings. (The 9-Course Tasting Menu with wine pairings on Saturdays and Sundays might be too much of a good thing for us “puritans.”) The Tavern might just have a seat for me after Easter…

Mirabelle is offering a special Easter Sunday prix fixe from 1 to 7 p.m. on April 16,  as well as an Easter Sunday Grand Buffet from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 150 Main Street, Stony Brook. 631-751-0555, lessings.com