Page At 63 Main: ‘Seed to table’

Page At 63 Main in Sag Harbor offers one of the most delightful spots to dine in all of the Hamptons, if you like to people watch. Also, for privacy, is a lovely atrium room toward the back of the restaurant.

The building features a foundation of limestone and granite, which is not indigenous to eastern Long Island. The enormous stones were quarried in New England and used as ballast in the great whaling ships of the era, most notably for Captain George Page, for whom the eatery is named. The exposed brick inside the restaurant originated in the Sag Harbor Brick Kiln Factory as revealed by the yellow stamp on the top of each pallet.

Situated on Main Street, Sag Harbor, with tables in the front, this restaurant, which opened in 2010 in place of the old Spinnaker’s and reinvented itself a few years later, is one of the only “seed-to-table” restaurants around. What exactly does that mean? A glimpse in the ancient, stone basement will show you.

General manager Eric Peele proudly displayed the sustainable aquaponics system housed between hand-hewn wooden lally columns. Aquaponic greens grow in four different aquaponic systems including an atrium room vertical wall, a seasonal rooftop vertical wall, a grow room vertical and horizontal conveyor system, and basement flatbed system. “Not only is our aquaponic produce delicious and full of flavor, it is also hyper-local (grown in our restaurant) and 100 percent organic,” reads the restaurant’s website.

The food is beautifully presented and offers something for everyone. An ahi tuna tartare tower topped with avocado, an iconic dish in the Hamptons, sparkles with originality and a bit of crunch from the cucumber, jalapeño, pickled ginger, and a spicy aji-mirin dressing.

The baby arugula salad, with shaved fennel, crispy prosciutto, Parmesan, and sherry vinaigrette is light and fresh, and large enough to share.

Although many of the main dishes are delicious and original, the gemelli pasta with sweet fennel sausage and broccoli rabe, while tasty, was a bit dry. But the skin charred organic salmon, with black Chinese rice, baby bok choy and sweet baby peppers with a pickled ginger emulsion, is absolutely delectable. The bouillabaisse, featuring a full roster of sea denizens in a saffron lobster broth, is also a winner.

For dessert, my guest and I shared a vanilla bean panna cotta, served on a mixed berry compote with ginger crumble, a creamy, tart, and sweet way to end the meal. A local honey and lavender crème brulée also offers a lovely way to wrap up dinner without overwhelming the palate.

The new bar that Page at 63 Main has recently renovated is attracting a younger, hipper crowd, but there’s still plenty of room for the regulars under the tin ceilings and in the private corners of this bastion of Main Street.

bridget@indyeastend.com