Julian Medina Brings Elevated Mexican Cuisine to El Verano in Southampton

Julian Medina, a Quogue resident and chef/partner of several well-received Mexican eateries in the city, never intended to open a restaurant in the Hamptons. “That was my place to go rest in the summer,” he says.

That is, until a “special” location came up with a landlord interested in a fresh concept to take over a highly visible space at 10 Windmill Lane in Southampton Village. “It was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, and it was just take it or leave it.”

Medina took it, he says, and is now putting the finishing touches on El Verano, an upscale Mexican concept that will be the latest from the man behind Upper West Side Mexican seafood place El Fish Masqueria and long-time Broadway staple Toloache.

He’s currently in the process of renovating the space, just off Jobs Lane, that has been notably empty the last couple of seasons. According to Medina, the landlord was waiting for a chef that was going to do something different than Italian fare, which is well-covered among near-by restaurants. The space has “a really cool vibe” that he felt immediately.

“It’s not a traditional, authentic menu that I’m going to put out, it’s not going to be a taqueria, or the type of place where you get an enchilada,” says Medina. “It’s Mexican, but elevated and warm.”

Expect signature dishes like huitlacoche — a type of corn fungus — and black truffle quesadillas with fresh corn; lobster tacos with a peanut salsa macha sauce; and several varieties of ceviche and crudo. There will also be a distinct focus on local summer produce like corn, peppers, and tomatoes.

The New York Times, in a review of Toloache, said that Chef Medina “had built up a nice restaurant,” praising the “flavor and execution” of his quesadillas (including one with manchego, black truffles, and huitlacoche,) the “elegant and modern tacos,” and the carne asada. Reviewer Sam Sifton made it apparent that Toloache — which Medina refers to as a “Bistro Mexicano” — was one of the few bright spots in a district unkind to those wanting to eat well before or after a show.

For El Fish, his newer Mexican seafood restaurant on Amsterdam Avenue, Medina said the vibrant, seafood-forward concept was inspired by a trip to Ensenada, northern Baja California fishing country.

At El Verano, he said he will showcase local produce and not rely so heavily on fish. He is very familiar with the East End farming network, and even grows peppers, tomatoes, and jalapenos in his private garden in Quogue that he plans on using in El Verano’s kitchen. He noted that this newest place, with a new group of partners, reflects the more elevated, creative aspects of Mexican cuisine, and that it will pair well with those hungry for a Latin-inspired flavor profile after a day at the beach.

“The Hamptons needs good Mexican,” he said. “There’s just not many good Latin restaurants around, so it’s about time we step up a little bit.”

Medina said that he hopes the bar at El Verano will have an atmosphere all its own. It will accommodate up to eighteen, along with some high-top tables, and offer over a hundred types of tequila, as well as margaritas (types) and fresh-squeezed juices. “Who doesn’t want a frozen margarita after the beach?” he said. “It’s going to be a great spot to bring a couple of friends and hang out at the bar.” He said that his signature takes on tequila-based cocktails are all the rage at his Upper East Side locations, and that he’s noticed that “moms love tequila.”

Raised in Mexico City, Medina trained at the French Culinary Institute before going on to work for several notable New York City restaurants. In 2011, he was featured on Iron Chef America: Mexican Chocolate Battle. He has developed a following for his creative approach to Mexican cuisine.

While the Hamptons was a place of rest and relaxation for Medina, expect the chef/owner to be hands-on with his latest creation. “This summer in the Hamptons I’m not going to be at the beach, but in the kitchen.”

El Verano is located at 10 Windmill Lane in Southampton Village. Chef Julian Medina will also bring the flavors of El Verano to Dan’s Chefs of the Hamptons at EHP Resort & Marina in East Hampton on Thursday, June 22. Visit DansTaste.com for info