Biggie's Lunch: A Familiar Face with a Fresh New Look in Southold

Steve Ammirati, aka Biggie, was born with a wooden spoon in his hand, and he hasn’t been able to let go since. 

At the age of seven, Biggie worked for his Uncle Vito at Love Lane Market in Mattituck, putting together newspapers and cleaning the store. Through osmosis he developed a keen sense of the kitchen during his impressionable years when his grandmother helped foster a fondness for cooking. The rest is history. Though he says he tried to escape the harried life of the food business, he’s given into his calling and happily commands his new establishment, Biggie’s Lunch.

Biggie’s Lunch opened its doors on County Road 48, Southold, the site of The Catered Fork, on January 25. The locale has evolved over the years, from North Fork Food and Erik’s (a breakfast/lunch favorite for over 15 years), to his catering venture and now a dine-in casual venue. 

“Opening day was excellent, better than expected,” Biggie says. He’s had a steady flow of customers since. When you can’t find a parking spot at 2:30 on a rainy afternoon, you have to assume everyone in the lot is onto something.

The space has a dual vibe: half modern farmhouse, complete with a vaulted ceiling and fresh white walls. The other half with a slap-the-screen-door-shut summer-cottage feel. Biggie hopes to have a place where people can come in their swimsuits straight from the boat or beach – disheveled, sandy and hungry. He says there’s no place like that around, where you can come-as-you-are and enjoy a hassle-free delicious meal.

So where did the name Biggie’s come from?

“The only people who call me Steve are my mom, grandma, and my wife. If you’re behind me and you call me Steve, I wouldn’t know you were talking to me.” Ammirati’s nickname has been Biggie ever since he can remember; it’s even tattooed on his arm.

People come to the eatery because they love Biggie, but they also come for the food. The menu is a tease; you can’t possibly eat five entrees at one sitting. You know you’re coming back for more.

“When you’re growing up, you kind of eat the same thing over and over again,” Biggie says. “I wanted something different.” He was always willing to try new things, and his menu reflects his adventurous culinary spirit. 

The menu, reasonably priced with most selections falling between $13 and $18 (the most expensive item is the NOFO lobster roll at $33), features a balanced line-up of starters, salads, quesadillas and sandwiches. After your first excursion, you’ll be building a Biggie’s bucket list of must-try plates.

“The most popular items on the menu so far are the eggplant and turkey,” Biggie says.

The sandwiches are accompanied by a generous supply of fries — outstanding fries, to be frank. To take such care with a French fry, where other establishments serve pale, tasteless, undercooked potato rods, that shows authentic culinary concern. Powdered with salt and spices, seared to perfection, leaving a crunchy coating outside and tender inside. You will get the clean plate award here.

The seasoned grilled chicken is marinated until fork tender, wearing a layer of crisp prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, arugula and romesco sauce — all housed on a plank of flaky, authentic French bread. When your 19-year-old son comments “wow, there’s a lot of flavors going on here,” you know it’s something special.

Clearly Biggie believes most things are better with bacon, as there is some form of it on six out of the 22 menu items: steakhouse bacon tops the marinated flank steak sandwich, maple bacon is tucked into the turkey and brie on rye, crumbled bacon finishes the chicken ranch quesadillas.

Biggie’s has a full bar as well, serving up wine from Macari, local beer and an ample assortment of spirits. He plans on adding more regional wines to the list over time.

The hours are somewhat of an enigma — Biggie’s Lunch is open from 10:30 a.m. — 7:30 p.m.  As routine-loving humans we are accustomed to scheduled meal times, according to some unofficial clock. What time is lunch anyway? Here you can have brunch, lunch, dinner, linner, light bites, large snacks and everything in between. You eat when you feel like eating. So liberating.

The kicker question for Biggie: If he were to try to Beat Bobby Flay, what would be his signature dish? The Italian in his Italian-Irish bloodline influences his decision. 

“Sunday Sauce,” he answers.

For the time being, Biggie’s will be open at The Catered Fork (43715 County Road 48, Southold) every Thursday through Monday from 10:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Biggie does have plans to extend the hours on Friday and Saturday nights come the warmer weather.

Stay tuned.