Long Live The Shagwong, a Montauk Icon

Established under the guise of the Montauk Sweet Shop, the iconic Shagwong Tavern – then called the Montauk Tavern – pulled off a clandestine existence during the Prohibition beginning in 1927. The speakeasy survived six years until 1933 when the ban of spirits was finally lifted, and the Montauk Tavern was able trade their lollipops for whiskey. Ironically, the taproom would endure yet a different kind of ban almost a century later.

The Montauk Tavern became the Shagwong Tavern in March of 1946. While it drew a crowd of flannel-wearing fishermen who traded tales of the one that got away over a cold brew, it oddly also became a hub for celebrities. The place became abuzz with private parties, live bands, and lots of singing and dancing.

Jimmy Hewitt became the proud new owner in 1969, continuing the legacy of luring in a mega VIP list that included Mick Jagger, Andy Warhol and Peter Beard. Raucous crowds of locals, musicians and society folk would party the night away, leaving their worries outside the doors of the Shagwong.

Hewitt sold the Shagwong in 2015 to current owners Beau Campsey and Jon Krasner, who later brought in partner Jason Behan. When the trio took over there was an undercurrent of fear that new ownership meant change. But fears were laid to rest quickly when the new regime expressed they were looking to preserve the Shagwong’s storied history and maintain a spot where locals could carouse and tourists could take in a Montauk legend.

They kept most of the interior intact except for a much-needed kitchen overhaul, a fresh coat of paint, and updated-yet-fitting wood furniture. The walls are decked in photos of yesteryear along with swordfish and shark mounts, and a pool table is ready for play in the off-season.

“We want to continue to be a classic tavern,” says Behan. “We’re keeping the tradition alive.”

Although the three form a crew at the Shagwong, Behan is clearly at the helm. He takes food seriously – so much so that he’s been through several chefs over the years. The so-called “dive bar” has a menu that competes with the best of them on the south fork, the dinner hour serving up dishes like their renowned New England creamy clam chowder, seafood paella, and a house-made lobster roll.  Of course you’ll find mainstays like the triple-meat Shagwong burger, mac and cheese, crispy wings and Montauk fish & chips.

The lunch menu is similar to dinner, with some bonuses such as the lamb gyro, chicken sandwich, falafel gyro, and fish tacos.

With many connections to area fishermen, Behan strives to feature fresh catch from local waters when possible. Right now the fleets are pulling in tile and cod, and you’ll find these as nightly specials.

They’ve also stepped up their game behind the bar, with spirits dressing for the occasion in martini glasses and fruit garnishes. Specialty cocktails include a spicy cucumber margarita, a Main St. mule, a rum punch and the Shagwong bloody mary. Beer drinkers won’t go thirsty with almost a dozen draft beers – Guinness included – and an equal number of bottles/cans.

And now back to the ban. In a bizarre “Footloose” move, the town of East Hampton cracked down on “dancing” at a select few Montauk pubs and eateries during the summer of 2022, the Shagwong being one of the chosen few. They alleged that the Shagwong was not “zoned” for dancing, even though those floors had been swathed in dancing feet for decades.

“The law in the town of East Hampton states you can’t move the tables in a restaurant to dance,” Behan laughed. “If I didn’t move them, my customers would be dancing ON them.”

For Behan, those were fightin’ words. He rallied, gathering ammo and backup from patrons, friends and anyone who had ever tapped a toe in the joint. He stockpiled proof in the form of photos – photos of people dancing at the Shagwong in the 60s and 70s – and lots of them. Supporters appeared at the town hall meetings admitting they had indeed once busted their moves at the Shagwong.

After an appeal and a massive outcry of support from the community in spring of 2023, they had won the battle. The shindig could return to the Shagwong.

Born and bred in Montauk, Behan is deeply connected to both the culture and community. He expressed excitement over the completion of the Montauk Point beach project, an initiative that started back in 1960 and finally came to fruition. 450,000 cubic yards of sand were dredged offshore and deposited on the downtown ocean beach.

While most of the town is hushed during winter, the tavern’s doors remain open all year round. There’s still time to grab an empty stool – and a story – before the summer crowds rush in.

If you’re attending the 62nd Annual Montauk St. Patrick’s Day Parade, don’t forget to partake in the traditional “Pause for a Cause,” a time to break and quench your thirst with an honorary shot at the Shagwong. Behan’s bloodline has a long history with the parade — his grandfather, father and mother all taking roles as grand marshal over the years.

The Shagwong Tavern is located at 774 Montauk Highway in Montauk. It can be reached at 631-668-3050 or shagwongtavern.com