Il Giardino: A Slice of Sicily on the North Fork

The North Fork was blessed with an Italian gem several years ago, captained by Sicilian owner and chef John Gambino. Il Giardino (translation “little garden”) in Aquebogue is a true garden-to-table dining experience. Don’t let its humble abode fool you — there are edible treasures inside.

Residing in a gently rejuvenated 1830s-era house, Il Giardino retains its old-world charm by virtue of its untouched footprint, ornate woodwork and creaky plank floors. The steep narrow stairway that greets you at the door beckons you to wonder what — or who — occupies the second floor.

Gambino, clad in starched chef’s whites, guards the establishment with sharp senses. He is all-knowing, appearing with bread or water at the mere sight of you looking thirsty or hungry from afar. He commands the kitchen with the same finesse, ensuring every dish that leaves the swinging doors is up to par.

The dining rooms are cozy to say the least, but the mirrored walls make you feel like there’s more room than there actually is. Eating elbow to elbow with adjacent tables enhances the “big Italian family dinner” experience. As with many restaurants, the pandemic gave rise to massive creativity, with seating areas now spilled out on the front porch, side yards and even a spacious area out back complete with a rustic bar and vine trellis reminiscent of a Tuscan hillside. In the warmer months patrons can dine amidst the greenery, sipping wine under the North Fork sun and coffee beneath the stars. There’s also a cozy firepit area for pre-dinner cocktails.

The grounds house a bountiful garden sourcing the kitchen with fresh herbs and vegetables. Here, Gambino grows fiery red tomatoes, cucumbers and voluptuous fragrant basil, while fig and other fruit trees grace the perimeter. Lightly gripping a rich espresso, this is where Gambino spends his mornings — a place that feels most like his home back in Italy. He grew up on his parents’ farm in Palermo, where he learned the graces of cooking with fresh produce. He brings these virtues to Il Giardino.

Though the menu is traditional in scope, Gambino adds nuances of his own. John’s Sicilian Salad is a vibrant montage of oranges, fennel, snappy string beans, asparagus, potatoes and olives. Starters also include house-made mozzarella and tomatoes, baby eggplant with fresh basil and tomato, grilled octopus and a must-try seafood salad with shrimp, calamari, scungilli, mussels and octopus. While you move on to peruse the columns of entries, don’t be surprised to have Gambino drop a gratis plate of grilled cauliflower, specialty pasta or other tantalizing teaser at your table. Just a little something to prep the palate.

For a main course, you can choose from more than a dozen pasta selections: bucatini broccoli rabe, chicken Bolognese, Nicoleta’s lasagna and Sicilian orecchiette. Under the seafood banner you’ll find flounder oreganata, branzino and shrimp fra diavolo; while meat dishes cover Italian charmers like veal scallopini and chicken Milanese.

Each night there are impeccable specials to accompany the tempting menu — recent dishes include baked clams, stuffed flounder and stuffed artichokes. The entrees fill the plate to their entirety, sauces and mainstays teetering dangerously close to edge. You can’t help but comment on the volume of the meal in front of you while your subconscious is already looking forward to a second round as tomorrow’s lunch.

Gambino returned to Palermo, where he was born and raised, this past February, reconnecting with his roots and taking a much-needed break before the onslaught of the busy season. While there, he visited Pasticceria Costa, a fine Italian bakery where he worked until he was 15, and had the chance to see Mr. Costa himself, who is now 87. He also gained some culinary inspiration in his travels, noting some of his favorite regional dishes and packing them in his mental suitcase for the return home.

“I brought back a recipe of paccheri al pistachio pesto from a restaurant in Sicily,” says Gambino. “I served it as a special here a few days ago, and everyone loved it.”

Now in early spring, he is planning his garden, impatiently waiting for the weather to warm up.

“I am slowly getting the garden ready to plant zucchini for the zucchini flowers; in late spring, baby eggplant; and lots of cucuzza (squash) for the summer when I make cucuzza in brodetto and pasta con tenerumi (the leaves and shoots of the cucuzza). I am also planting more grapevines.”

There are certain restaurants where you just feel the energy, and you want to be a part of it. Il Giardino is one of those places. Intermittent laughter permeates the space, and diners exchange passionate conversation between forkfuls of Italian greatness. The staff is a flurry of platters and smiles, and Gambino greets each and every patron with a welcomed nod.

If you can’t squeeze in an impulsive trip to Sicily, a ride to the North Fork will suffice for the time being.

Il Giardino is located at 739 Main Road, Aquebogue. It can be reached by calling 631-779-3900 or by visiting ilgiardinoaquebogue.com.