Farm Country Kitchen: A Little Piece of Heaven on the Peconic Riverfront

Rosé Soirée presented by Wilmington Trust

This is a story of evolution and true grit; of a kid who rose from bussing tables to get through college to leading one of the most successful establishments on the North Fork.

Tom Carson embarked on a career path like many ambitious graduating seniors: donning a suit and stepping into the tech world, where the sky is the limit. But after only two years, the suit no longer fit, and he tossed it for something more in line with his being.

Carson fell back on his years in the restaurant industry, a realm he felt in tune with. His first few ventures included a partnership in Pasta Pasta, a restaurant, and Harbor Gates, a bar, both in Port Jefferson. After several years he once again felt the nudge to change course, leading him to launch a makeshift catering business out of his own home in 2001. With his wife, Maria, his mother-in-law and other supportive family members by his side, they cranked out sandwiches and salads and delivered them as far west as Setauket, mostly to corporate customers eager for homemade, delicious lunches.

A year hadn’t passed before he outgrew his kitchen. Carson set out to find a suitable space for their pursuit. He stumbled on a dilapidated farmhouse on the Peconic River — what Carson calls “a very unique place” — and the seeds of the Farm Country Kitchen were planted.

They initially continued making lunches for delivery and takeout, staying under the radar and literally hidden from sight. But over time the establishment was discovered, as locals and customers alike couldn’t contain their curiosity. They started to linger as they nibbled on their takeout feast; Carson responded by putting out a few tables and chairs.

Fast forward, the Farm Country Kitchen is now a coveted farm-to-table restaurant nestled on a sprawling riverfront clearing. Most of the interior and exterior building is original, retaining the old-world charm that resonates with patrons. Diners eat on covered screen porches and at tables sprawled about the property, while Adirondack chairs are set on the grass ready for you to take in the beautiful scenery.

To manage expectations: if you haven’t visited before, you will no doubt pass it the first go-around, as your eyes are anticipating something other than the modest shingled farmhouse veiled behind lush greenery on the riverbank. Once circling back around you’ll see only a handful of parking spots in front, but do not fret. Just north on Sweezy Avenue— about 150 feet away — are an additional 60 spots in an empty lot Carson acquired for restaurant parking.

Though the gorgeous setting is a huge draw at Farm Country Kitchen, patrons are hooked on its epicurean edge as well. The kitchen comprises a nine-person team of highly skilled staff led by head chef Todd Sabatini, who is Carson’s right-hand man and brings decades of culinary excellence to the table. The duo changes the menu seasonally, sourcing ingredients locally as often as possible.

They buy fresh seafood when they can, including catch from local fishermen and Peconic Gold oysters. Some other regional ingredients in season cover arugula from Satur Farms, corn from Rottkamp, tomatoes from Schmitt’s and microgreens from Urban Coyote.

“We started out as a farm-to-table restaurant, before anyone had ever heard the term. That’s what we continue to be,” Carson says.

Though they are open year-round and are plenty busy in the off-season, when the weather breaks, the place is packed most afternoons and evenings.

“We roll out 500 meals daily on a summer holiday weekend,” Carson adds.

So what’s the secret to his success?

“You have to have the patience to learn anything,” he explains. “We still operate the way we did when we first opened. Really good quality products — nothing ‘no frills’ here. We make all our own sauces and dressings. There’s a lot of attention to detail, and we’re very organized. It takes a lot of effort and energy, and we’ve been at it for 21 years.”

Carson’s 22-year-old daughter Gemma is jumping on board, learning the ropes from her dad while adding her “excellent culinary flair,” he comments. The biz is in the blood, however, as wife Maria, along with her parents, own the popular Italian spot Savino’s Hideaway in Mount Sinai.

With the warm weather finally here, it’s an ideal time to take in the spectacular sights (and the fabulous food) at Farm Country Kitchen, located at 513 West Main Street, Riverhead. Learn more at farmcountrykitchenli.com.

Farm Country Kitchen is participating in  Dan’s Rosé Soirée Presented by Wilmington Trust on May 26, the Sunday of Memorial Day weekend. Carson and Sabatini are toying with several possible menu options for the event, including light seafood, truffle ricotta or goat cheese crostini, and something vegetarian, among others.

Visit DansTaste.com for tickets.