The Evolution of Sant Ambroeus

If you ask people to name their favorite restaurant in New York, a surprising number will say Sant Ambroeus, and they may give you the same answer in Palm Beach, the Hamptons, and cities beyond. Interestingly, the locations may seem different at first blush – the West 4th Street site is on a timeless cobblestoned corner, the East Hampton boîte is nestled on the broad street of a resort town, and the Palm Beach ristorante sits on a large terrace that borders the chic Royal Poinciana shopping plaza – but they all maintain the same ethos and standards.

“Each location is an homage to the neighborhood,’’ explains Sant Ambroeus CEO Federico Turconi. “We are approaching our 90th birthday, and our growth has been quite organic. What you find in Brookfield Place is not the same as the West Village in terms of size and space.’’ Indeed, the FIDI building, the newest in New York, is sprawling compared to the West Village spot, with ceilings about twice as high.

The sense of being an integral part of each area is key to the brand’s success, and it caters to the neighborhoods by offering service from morning until night.

“We go into the most relevant areas and try to serve the communities,’’ he said. “You can come in at 8 a.m., have a coffee and pastry, and sit for hours in the morning, and come for a plate of pasta at 4 p.m.’’

Sant Ambroeus began as a pastry shop in Milan in 1936, and it became a place where celebrities, nobility, and intellectuals would start the day with cappuccino and baked goods.  The tradition continued when ownership transitioned to the Pauli family, who expanded to New York in 1982, then Southampton followed. In 2003, SA Hospitality Group was formed, which umbrellas the more casual offshoot Felice and the landmarked Casa Lever in midtown.

After COVID, another East End location of Sant Ambroeus was an obvious choice.

“With the pandemic, the Hamptons became more of a permanent habit, and we felt there was an opportunity to open in East Hampton,’’ Turconi recalled. “Resort markets have always been very important; the success of Southampton informed our decision to open in Palm Beach.  When people are on vacation, they like to eat their favorite food, and Italian food goes well with a resort atmosphere. It’s the kind of meal you want to have while relaxed and enjoying a glass of wine.’’

It also helps that the food at Sant Ambroeus is of the highest quality and simply prepared so that diners can enjoy a healthy meal without feeling deprived.

“There was a culture of Italian food, but it was very Americanized,’’ said Turconi. “Sant Ambroeus was one of the first to bring an authentic Italian food experience here. Before the 1980s or 90s, it was hard to find a place with good, clean arugula and artichoke salad, but now in big cities, the clientele has become more educated about eating well and going after quality.’’

So rather than penne a la vodka or chicken parmesan, at the restaurants he oversees, you will find pasta with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, San Marzano tomatoes, or Manila clams; roasted cauliflower with a coconut mustard sauce; and oven-roasted branzino and grilled chicken paillard.

This year, Sant Ambroeus premiered a restaurant in Aspen; a Paris location will open at the end of the year, and a Miami restaurant will follow.

“We want to continue to expand nationally and internationally,’’ said Turconi. “The brand was born in Italy, but it became well recognized in the international scene through our operations in New York, the Hamptons, and Palm Beach.  Since New York is an international center, especially for fashion, art, and business, we have followers and fans in Miami, Los Angeles, Paris, and London. Hence, the intention is to expand the brand in the most important cities.’’

The West Coast is also on our radar.  “We are exploring locations in Beverly Hills and, hopefully, Texas. We are not a chain that can open 40 restaurants, but we aim to cover the most significant international markets.”

Will Sant Ambroeus follow other high-end culinary leaders like Jean Georges Vongerichten or Major Food Group in pursuing real estate or other forms of hospitality?

“We want to be very consistent with what we have on the plate and don’t want to overcommit, but we are a lifestyle brand,’’ said Turconi. “I don’t envision doing a condo, but a beautiful Sant Ambroeus hotel in the right market could be a fantastic proposition.’